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Bugaboo-Canadian Rockies Conditions

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Re: Bugaboo-Canadian Rockies Conditions

Postby Dow Williams » Wed Aug 22, 2012 3:22 pm

Canadian Rockies Update: We have experienced one of the better August conditions in the past decade. Dry and stable. Climbed the Greenwood-Boles route on the north face of Mt. Edith two days ago, typically a wet route. Only one of the nine long pitches was wet. The descent gully was almost completely dry. The Kafir Strikes Back however, is still way out of condition from drainage. The descent slings were all gone or rotten. We restrung all the raps. Obviously first party up the N. Face this year, and perhaps for several years. Freezing temps down to valley floor on their way this week.
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Dow Williams

 
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Re: Bugaboo-Canadian Rockies Conditions

Postby Dow Williams » Tue Aug 28, 2012 3:58 pm

Canadian Rockies Update: Soloed the three Goodsirs the last three days (25th-27th). The new snow had turned to verglass on some west facing aspects, but not enough to make much difference (when the rock is this bad, every move is suspect to begin with). I used a unique approach to summit all three peaks in 50hrs, biving just below the furthest east SW ridge of south Tower, leaving my pack on this ridge, picking it up on descent and moving the bivy across the true sw ridge down to below the middle Goodsir. Hate to break it to you avid 11er peak baggers, but this will be your worst bushwhacking experience yet to come. Budget cuts to the parks has even left the trail to the unused warden cabin littered with dead fall. Heavy rains and wind have caused even more dead-fall than normal from the warden cabin to the peaks. Beta from Corbett's book and another 1991 source about staying between the marsh and alders is irrelevant. A new flagged approach will be detailed in my summitpost beta report later today. Worst rock (South Tower) and approach I have experienced in the Canadian Rockies in the past decade.
A good angled photo from the South Tower showing the amount of snow vs scree on the infamous "V" on North Tower as of Aug 26.
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Re: Bugaboo-Canadian Rockies Conditions

Postby Old School WB » Tue Aug 28, 2012 6:56 pm

Dow

Congratulations!!

That is an extremely impressive feat. I am pretty sure your trip is the first solo of all, or any, of the Goodsirs Towers. Great perseverance on the approach and grind up the loose rock. You ticking off 11,000’ers at an remarkable rate. Looking forward to your complete report!

Awesome bro!
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Re: Bugaboo-Canadian Rockies Conditions

Postby Dow Williams » Wed Aug 29, 2012 4:13 pm

Thanks Kev...I got a little crazy in the alpine because I broke a rib and could not rock climb....

Goodsirs....the approach, the rock...enough to make a man question his sanity. Starting to long for desert crack. One trip into the Bugs, one or two new local lines, maybe the Lyells..then I am out of here. Come for a visit this winter. Cheers
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Dow Williams

 
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Re: Bugaboo-Canadian Rockies Conditions

Postby Dow Williams » Mon Sep 03, 2012 2:43 am

Canadian Rockies Update: Received our first low temp major precipitation event of the late summer/fall. What was to be a small single day "move through system" stalled and hammered the Bugs pretty good last night. Snow reached the hut level (7000'-8000') and the clouds lingered this morning with a 60% chance of more on Mon. Driving home from the bugs through the Canadian Rockies, the snow level seemed to be similar throughout Kootney NP. The issue with the current lower temps is that a freeze thaw cycle begins, filling cracks with drainage and ice at higher elevations. Bugaboo NE Ridge and South Howser for example, just went out of condition. However winds quickly dry out front range objectives i.e. Ha Lings NF and we will be on it tomorrow.
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