Can this support method is correct?

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Alamkuh

 
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Can this support method is correct?

by Alamkuh » Thu May 27, 2010 6:44 pm

One of my friends lacked Harnes this method could be used to support, My friend and I have a problem now that this is correct or not?
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nartreb

 
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by nartreb » Thu May 27, 2010 6:59 pm

His belay device is attached to a solid anchor, instead of to his harness. Perfectly fine for toproping. In fact since the climber outweighs him, the belayer would want to anchor himself even if he had a harness. Belaying off an anchor is also common practice when a leader brings up a second, especially if there are two seconds climbing simultaneously.

I wouldn't do this to belay a leader if I could avoid it (and I can, see below). Belaying from the harness gives you more control over feeding and taking slack, and lets you use your body weight to provide a "soft catch".

You can make a harness out of a sling. Pick up a copy of _Freedom of the Hills_; there are good diagrams in there.
Last edited by nartreb on Thu May 27, 2010 7:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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The Chief

 
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by The Chief » Thu May 27, 2010 7:01 pm

Perfect example of a DIRECT BELAY System as long as the Power Point is Solid, Equalized, Redundant with No Extension.

Agree that this rig is an acceptable system for TRing!

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nartreb

 
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by nartreb » Thu May 27, 2010 7:11 pm

Some more details.

I'm not quite sure from the photo, but it looks like

a) the belayer has the loose end of the rope around his neck. That's a BAD idea.

b) there's no belay device, just some kind of hitch. This is not great, but acceptable.


edit: Chief, I would point out that the anchor in this photo is almost surely not Redundant. I'd probably rely on it myself, but it would be better with a seperate loop of sling around the tree, and even better with a back-up sling tied to a different tree.
Last edited by nartreb on Thu May 27, 2010 7:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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The Chief

 
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by The Chief » Thu May 27, 2010 7:15 pm

Best Illustration that I can muster up at the moment. Same principal just reverse it from bringing up the 2nd to belaying the TRing individual. The Munter is a valid Hitch to belay with and easily tied off with a Munter Mule etc.:

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