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Denali Guide Experiences

Regional discussion and conditions reports for Canada and Alaska. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the Canada and Alaska Climbing Partners forum.

Re: Denali Guide Experiences

Postby Catamount » Thu Apr 17, 2014 7:04 pm

No worries, George. The guide-to-client numbers and the issue you brought up did, in fact, play a role in my decision to go with AAI over AMS. Both services run a 3:1 ratio for Denali with the key difference being that AAI is 9:3 whereas AMS is 6:2. Losing one guide out of three is less of a big deal than losing one out of two. And while I definitely want to summit, what I'm paying for is expertise on multiple levels so that I can get the most out of a once-in-a-lifetime experience on Denali.

Not my first guided trip either. When I did Gannett with JHMG, it was 1 guide and 3 clients. On Hood, it was 1 guide and 2 clients. On both trips, we all knew we would either all likely summit or turn around as a team. It's an interesting kind of energy/dynamic when you're mountain climbing with strangers but so far, all 4 of my guided trips have been very positive on every level. My philosophy is the mountain experience is the most important thing while the summit is secondary. The type A stuff stays at home. :wink:

Trip is already booked. June 7-27, 2015.
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Re: Denali Guide Experiences

Postby OPHIRTODD » Mon Apr 21, 2014 7:35 pm

I thought I'd chime in with a couple of thoughts.

Firstly, I'd be a bit hesitant about running insulated supergaiters with Arctis Ex boots, even in June. Chances are good that you'd be fine, but you can certainly get some super cold days high on Denali, even in July... It would be a bummer to regret having not brought overboots.

Secondly, one thing to consider with teams of 6 climbers and 2 guides is what will happen, if someone bonks and cannot go to high camp? We've seen this happen time and again, and having only one guide on summit day can really limit your options.

For what it's worth-- there is one company that offers scheduled trips of 6 climbers and 3 guides. Thanks for the shout out in this thread Scott!
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