I'm interested in getting some input from the good folks on Summitpost on this question:
Is a full Gore-tex/eVent hard shell jacket a necessity on Denali's West Buttress route in May? Or would a wind shell suffice?

I had always assumed that I would take my eVent hard shell jacket just because it is a big mountain with extreme conditions, and you want the "best" gear to be protected as much as possible from the elements. However, we are extremely unlikely to experience rain when the plan is to be off the mountain by May 20th, so a shell is primarily for keeping wind at bay. Melted snow under pressure (under shoulder pads, for example) would end up wetting out even in a Gore-tex or eVent shell. So, are there really any legitimate reasons that one would need to carry a full hard shell versus taking a wind shell like the Patagonia Houdini? Other than the perception of "that's just not enough protection," is there anything lacking in a durable, uncoated wind layer with tight weave fabrics and a DWR finish for Denali in May?

This is ExcitableBoy, I'm still trying to get my password reset for that account. Anyhow, I found climbing with a windbreaker to work very well in Alaska. I used a cheap Lowe nylon anorak, my partner had a similar Patagonia Pneumatic jacket. I've also used a Marmot Precip, which was over kill IMHO. I'm never going back to AK, but if I did, I would wear my 5.5 oz Marmot hooded windbreaker as a shell. Windproofness and breathability are key, waterproofness is not really important because it is very dry.

Thanks, EB! That's kind of the direction I was leaning, but it's helpful to get the perspective of someone who's been there before.

Related topic if you're still checking in: What did you use for shell pants? I'm planning to take my Theta SV bibs for full-zip, drop seat, plus have waterproofness for when I'm kneeling/digging in the snow. Based on experience and what I've seen/read, even with a wind shell on top, it seems prudent to suffer the weight penalty of good quality w/b bottoms. Any different perspectives to consider?

I used three layer hard shell pants on all my AK trips. I asked Mark 'King of the Kahiltna' Westman (more hard AK Range ascents than any other person I know) and he said he would not wear soft shell pants on Denali, or any big AK Range peak. So, I think you are correct in both your leanings.

If you read carefully, I name dropped a big mountain, name dropped the Marmot wind shirt, name dropped a famous climber, and mentioned I skied Mt. Baker in a day. Can I have my ExcitableBoy account back now?