Fletch wrote: there are some folks who say its good solid rock and if you are comfortable with good hand holds, the route is no problem.

I'm in this camp. However on a crowded weekend a helmet would be nice. If those above you are careless, a lot of small pebbles can get moving real fast.

Be safe and have a great time.

If it's any help, my dog did it nose down while I carefully and slowly went feet down, butt out. I'd guess it took him 30-sec, I took perhaps 10-min. 25-years makes it all a bit fuzzy.

It was from that trip an ah-ha, dogs can see where they're going if its in their comfort zone. Also their forelegs are much stronger than human arms. Imagine down climbing face down.

I would agree: no rope, but definitely take a helmet. Loose rocks can really get flying, especially with Labor Day crowds. The earlier the start, the better. For descent, I downclimbed when the rock was soaking wet. Did use the fixed rope for a short time, but even that wasn't necessary.

I have done LB twice, once in summer conditions and once as a snow climb. The Hourglass proper is short and sweet, I wouldn't want to mess around with a rope there...just move quickly through it. The real issue is above the hourglass, that's where all the loose rock resides and one must step carefully up there. There is only one rope up there now, and you couldn't pay me enough to touch it. I downclimbed the whole thing facing out with no trouble at all.

Personally, I would wait until spring and do it as a snow climb...LB is almost a lark with snow.

Good luck!

So, Fletch, how'd you do? Did you guys have a blast?

I bet you enjoyed yourself. Please add some photos.

That ridge to Blanca is another fun way to spend an afternoon.

Aw, well now, Fletch, that's just the way life goes sometimes.
I'm sorry for your disappointment.

Like they always say, "That mountain will still be there next year!"

Hope you'll share a trip report and photos after you accomplish the climb!