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Mont Blanc

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Re: Mont Blanc

Postby signorellil » Fri Jun 13, 2008 8:32 pm

Flachlandtiroler wrote:
cb294 wrote:The Gonella hut on the Italian side is closed for the season due to renovation. If you don´t mind camping or a bivy going there in September the Italian side may be your best bet for an uncrowded MB climb on a normal route.

You're right in that the italian route ist far less frequented. On the other hand this makes it more serious. Especially late in season travelling the dome glacier may be very difficult if not impossible (crevasses).
What's more, on the website of the hut even ascending to the hut (!) during the renovation period is forbidden.

I can't compare Co-14ers to Montblanc but my impression from some hiking trips with one all-14er-summiter was that this are two very different things. Co-14ers is (difficult) hiking, Montblanc (normal route in good conditions!) is (easy) mountaineering.



The Gonella hut is being rebuilt from scratches, and the hut platform restored (there were serious concerns about its stability). The last section of the hut access (an easy but exposed short ferrata) is CLOSED, because there's some serious danger for people coming up this way to get on their head material falling down from the platform.

In theory you can still pass there, but if anything happens, it's your fault (there may be problems with your insurance). Also, the old winter hut (which is will be left there to be a sort of small mountain museum) is now used by the construction crew. They're all guides and climbers, and good people too (I know a few of them) - two years ago two risked their skins to locate a missing group of climbers. However, they don't necessarily need to look after the problems of climber "passing by"...

The Gonella hut route is a far better way to climb MB than the French routes, but as the poster above states, is a true mountaineering route, not a glorified hike... (and it's very, very long - no lift or telepherique from this side!)
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Re: Mont Blanc

Postby Flachlandtiroler » Fri Jun 13, 2008 9:18 pm

signorellil wrote:The last section of the hut access (an easy but exposed short ferrata) is CLOSED, because there's some serious danger for people coming up this way to get on their head material falling down from the platform.

Remember this part very well, as it was quite strenous for us -- carrying tent + camping kit, food for three days and the whole mountaineering equipment; ant not too well acclimatised.
Everything that is falling down from above purges the route...

So this season there won't be any route across the glacier -- happy crevasse seeking (+ finding) is guaranteed ;-)

Martin
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Postby Diego Sahagún » Tue Jun 17, 2008 11:40 pm

Martha, I think that Mont Blanc is not visible from Geneve, the city.

BTW, Kairn.com shows this experimental weather forecast:

PREVISION EXPERIMENTALE…NE PAS EN ABUSER

Bulletin du mardi 17 juin
Prévisions Alpes du nord

Juin 2008
La seconde partie du mois sera plus chaude et dans l’ensemble ensoleillé sous un courant de sud-ouest. Passage par moment d’une perturbation orageuse.

Juillet 2008
Mois normal : l’anticyclone des Açores se prolongera jusqu’en Europe centrale permettant de bénéficier de longues périodes de temps chaud et ensoleillé. Les perturbations orageuses traverseront les Alpes 1 fois par semaine.

Août 2008
Courant d’ouest à sud-ouest provoquant du temps frais pluvieux sur une grande partie du mois. L’été sera vite terminé en raison de ces conditions perturbées.

Septembre 2008
Poursuite du temps perturbé en courant de sud-ouest. Même le sud-ouest apportera du froid et de grosses pluies sur les Alpes.


Octobre 2008
Courant d’ouest sur le nord de l’Europe apportant un temps souvent ensoleillé une bonne partie du mois mais le froid perturbé arrivera en fin de mois avec la neige..

Novembre 2008
Anticyclone par le nord apportant du temps sec froid et ensoleillé.
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Postby MarthaP » Wed Jun 18, 2008 8:42 pm

Diego Sahagún wrote:Martha, I think that Mont Blanc is not visible from Geneve, the city.


Probably so, mon cher, but mon amie lives un petit village overlooking Lac Geneve and she gives me weekly reports of the fact she can see la montagne chaque jour.

I appreciate your continued input into my saga. :P
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Postby klwagar » Wed Jun 18, 2008 9:39 pm

not to hijack this thread but... it looks like august isn't going to be very good either from that report! I'm heading to Chamonix for 3 weeks for climbs - Mt Blanc, Eiger and Matterhorn. How reliable is this report do you think? I knew I would be in for some storms but not all month!
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Postby Diego Sahagún » Wed Jun 18, 2008 11:58 pm

MarthaP wrote:
Diego Sahagún wrote:Martha, I think that Mont Blanc is not visible from Geneve, the city.


Probably so, mon cher, but mon amie lives un petit village overlooking Lac Geneve and she gives me weekly reports of the fact she can see la montagne chaque jour.

I appreciate your continued input into my saga. :P


You are welcome Martha. Yep, Mont Blanc can be seen from above Geneve, Mont Saleve. BTW, what is the village :?:
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