Mountaineering knot help

Tips, tricks, workouts, injury advice.
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norco17

 
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Re: Mountaineering knot help

by norco17 » Tue Dec 23, 2014 2:51 am

Who let the troll out of the basement? Go home Matt.

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logsden

 
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Re: Mountaineering knot help

by logsden » Tue Dec 23, 2014 2:55 am

sorry. I don't spend enough time around here to know how these internet rules of engagement really work. =) cheers.

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norco17

 
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Re: Mountaineering knot help

by norco17 » Tue Dec 23, 2014 3:47 am

logsden wrote:sorry. I don't spend enough time around here to know how these internet rules of engagement really work. =) cheers.


Not your fault. You just ran into one of our favorite trolls from down under.

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ExcitableBoy

 
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Re: Mountaineering knot help

by ExcitableBoy » Tue Dec 23, 2014 3:30 pm

magic johnson wrote:
logsden wrote:alright fair enough magic.

I think my confusion (and maybe EBs) regarding your questions, stems from your implication that basic two man and team crevasse rescue technique is somehow bordering on impossible or at least very unlikely.

It is not. But it absolutely DOES become sketchy and highly unlikely (and maybe impossible) if you are unfamiliar with how to utilize the tools and techniques that you should have at your disposal. Practice and refine.

Stopper knots, how and when to use them, how to haul when they are on the load line, and how to build an adequate anchor in variable snow conditions while holding your partner are all things that every climber should be well versed in. It's not rocket science or superhuman...but it's also not black magic.

edit: to the OP. Some good advice on this thread. You've gotten a few good recommendations already. Practice your tie in knots, study glacier movement and terrain assessment sections in the skills books of your choice, learn some friction hitches and play around with ascending a rope, study different ways to pre-rig your glacier rope setup (there are many), and just fiddle around with rope, cord, and any other gadgets you feel like trying. You've got a lot to study to while away the winter but the learning won't really start until you take a good course and get some hands on time in the real world. Have fun.


Have you done it in a real life situation, not practice?


I have, more than once. But let me ask you, if these standard glacier travel and crevasse rescue techniques are alarming to you, then what techniques are you using?

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ExcitableBoy

 
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Re: Mountaineering knot help

by ExcitableBoy » Tue Dec 23, 2014 10:03 pm

Bueller, Bueller, Bueller?

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norco17

 
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Re: Mountaineering knot help

by norco17 » Wed Dec 24, 2014 12:30 am

Anybody? Anybody?

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ExcitableBoy

 
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Re: Mountaineering knot help

by ExcitableBoy » Wed Dec 24, 2014 4:05 pm

magic johnson wrote:travel with 2 teams of two


So, you are basically hoping that another rope team will be able to assist you in a crevasse rescue scenario? What if one rope team is slower or turns back? Seems super sketchy to me. I prefer to be self reliant, as all rope teams should.

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Re: Mountaineering knot help

by herdbull » Wed Dec 24, 2014 6:56 pm

geesshhzzz.... sorry to hi-jack my own thread - lol..... another total newb question but what is the preferred knot when making loops to use in prusik knots? I see a couple different ones in my web searches.

It was also a very slow day at work yesterday and planning ahead I had brought in some rope. Pretty much have 6 or 7 knots down that I can do blindfolded. It was a productive day at the office.

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ExcitableBoy

 
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Re: Mountaineering knot help

by ExcitableBoy » Wed Dec 24, 2014 7:46 pm

When making a loop for a Prussik sling, a double or triple fisherman's is preferred. I find supple 5mm cord to be the best balance of strength and grippyness for most ropes.

Just to confuse the issue, there are other friction knots that can be used for ascending a rope including the Bachman knot and the kleimheist knot. Both are especially useful if you do not have cord handy as these knots will work with tubular webbing and sewn slings.

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