I am somewhat new to climbing (or you could call it backpack/hiking). I havn't yet graduated to crampons, ice axe, etc. I have summited several Cascade mountains without those items and without putting myself in danger (I've stayed away from north sister, Jefferson, etc). Been up Mt. Washington, Middle & South, Thielson, Diamond Peak and Matterhorn.

So my question is, is there a reasonably safe summer route up Mt. Hood that does not require the use of mountaineering tools? I am looking for a good summit hike. I enjoy hiking in, camping 1st night at a lake and then heading up in the morning. Is Hood out of the question?? Any other mountains come to mind?

Thanks

Todd

Crampons and ice axe are recommended for all routes on Mt Hood.

You might be able to consider Mount Adams in the right conditions, certainly Lassen Peak and Mount Saint Helens. Don't go up Hood without an ice ax and knowing how to use it.

I wouldn't classify or label any of the Cascade volcanoes as being "reasonably safe" ... but the Southern Spur route of Adams and Camp Muir from Paradise (on Rainier) are both relatively safe when done under the right conditions, particularly in fair weather and under cloudless skies.

My opinion, for what it's worth (of the ones you said you have not done and you only mention the Cascade volcanoes, nothing non-volcanic in the North Cascades so just sticking with the stratos):

Adams-yeah, easily doable late summer without gear but I would recommend taking at least Yaktrax or Microspikes in case the slope between Lunch Counter and Pikers Peak is icy. Would recommend you take an axe and crampons if you know how to use them but likely not needed that time of year.

St. Helens-sure, dusty hike after the melt

Three Fingered Jack-technical rock after the melt on par with Washington that you said you've done.

North Sister- I consider this to be the hardest volcano by the easiest route (did it when snow-covered though) but if you go late summer and are comfortable on a loose, crappy traverse with a fall meaning likely death and a 4th class scramble on crappy, falling, loose junk, it would be "possible" to do it without alpine gear. I think most people who do it do it this way but if there is snow, you will need crampons, axe, pickets, maybe screws/chocks, etc. Please don't let us read about you falling there though. You do have a glacier crossing to get to the ridge though. It's easy on the Collier and the crevasses are usually easily avoided (same route if you did Middle Sister that way, you just fork left off the glacier).

McLoughlin-great hike once the melt occurs

Lassen-walk-up

Shasta-Honestly, I would not recommend doing this without axe or crampons because you don't know what you'll run into but I was able to do it without either late season and only used my axe on the glissade. I don't think I'd recommend doing this without either, just saying I hit conditions where they were not needed one time. But I would not do it without having those pieces of gear along.

(anyone let me know if you disagree with any of this, just going off the top of my head)


Oh! And Hood, no, don't do it without the gear and skill to use them, on any route.

I think Adams is right up your ally. Day 1, hike up to 9000K (Lunch Counter)...Day 2 Summit, then glissading much of the way back to lunch counter, then back to the trailhead.

I went in July, and brought crampons and ice ax to the trailhead, but ended up only taking iceax with me. There was snow from the trailhead all the way up. I didnt need my iceax for anything including the glissade down, nor could I see needing it if i slipped on the slope heading up to pikers peak, unless you go before dawn and its icy.

Now crampons, i didnt need them at all, but as someone else has stated, needing them is gonna probably depend on what time you leave for the summit. Go before dawn and the snow will be hard and icy, in that case you may want crampons and ice ax. I left at dawn and the snow was softening up a bit.

Mt. Hood is an absolute NO NO without crampons and iceax. You would be gambling with your life without at least an ice ax. If you take a spill on the slope here (from hogsback up) you will get out of control very quickly, in which case you would absolutely need that iceax to selfarrest

Thank you to all of the responses. I am not one to go beyond what I know I can handle with my experience and have no intentions of going up North Sister. A guy fell to his death last year one week after we went to the top of Middle Sister.

Thanks for your advice on Mt. Hood, I guess she'll have to wait until I get a little more experience and tools usage under my belt.

I think I will do a little more digging on Mt. Adams, and Mount McGloughlin as they sound reasonably safe from what you guys have stated.

Thanks,

Todd

I agree with all of what others have stated.

That being said, graduating to ice ax and crampons doesn't take a major leap. If you have some trusted friends who have some mountaineering under their belt I'm sure they'd be happy to show you the ropes. Or take a basic mountaineering class through the Mazamas or another group. Once you get the basic techniques down and meet some partners many doors will open up for you, including SS of Hood.

Some other "hikey" summit ideas that haven't been mentioned:

Old Snowy (Goat Rocks)
Warner Peak (E Oregon)
Pretty much everything in the Wallowas is a walk-up
St Helens in winter is usually fine with snowshoes and poles, but may be a nice place to practice with ax/crampons

It's good to progress as you feel comfortable and work within your limits of acceptable risk. But the more tools you have in your toolbox, the more versatile a climber you will become. Have fun out there!

Good suggestions Jessbee.

I've climbed Hood in every season and can say that the worst time to climb Hood is from July to September. Rockfall, mushy snow, and really hard old ice is all you are likely to find. Yuck. Get a little practice with those sharp pointy objects and do Hood in April. Now that can be lovely, nice crunchy snow, no rockfall, ice is still covered by springtime snow. Yum. The other thing about Hood (at least by the standard route) is conditions can change alot. I've seen people hike up with just ski poles in relative safety, and seen other times where it was a struggle with crampons and ice-axe. Like others have said, Adams would be awesome for what you are after, and Old Snowy has a really good effort\reward ratio as well.

darinchadwick wrote:the worst time to climb Hood is from July to September.

+1

Mount Hood requires an ice axe, helmet, and crampons on all routes at all times of the season. Don't even think to chance it any other way.

To be honest all it takes is a couple of trip and a couple of hours in the mountains to review the ice axe (IE self belay, self arrest front, side and on the back, with and without crampons) and provided you are with the right teacher you will be on your way. Especially for your first time go in a group with more experienced people. Don't so much write off, but get the equipment find the right partners, and once you are fully comfortable with the equipment and your partners (and the weather as well) go for it.

EastKing wrote: Don't so much write off, but get the equipment find the right partners, and once you are fully comfortable with the equipment and your partners (and the weather as well) go for it.

Yeah, but for SOME people THIS could take several years to accomplish.

Actually, it took me several years (preparation) to climb to Rainier's summit for the first time. Everybody seems to want to RUSH through things
nowadays, but for SOME people TIME can be the difference between success and failure ... between life or death.

Read books. Ask questions. Monitor the weather. Get outside and do a test run. TIME will always be on Nature's side ..

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GSaDuI5WFMM[/youtube]

Sorry I know this picture always turns up so much controversy, but....


You do not want to be this guy, this is not safe practice for Mt. Hood.

http://www.google.com/imgres?q=mt+hood+ ... CEMQrQMwAA

You CAN be that guy without crampons - ONLY in ideal conditions. If snow is not hard or too mushy, it can be done.

I'm guessing 99 times out of 100, he will have to turn around. Be smart - be prepared for anything.

Sometimes, numberous climbers create a safe footpath (with steps) up. It all depends on correct weather to keep this footpath open. Falling ice chips sometimes fill in and cover these footpaths.