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Tips, tricks, workouts, injury advice.

3 people. 1 rope on steep snow

Hi guys,

I am goint to Liberty Ridge in June with 2 other climbers and I heard you could do this route (and others I suppose) with only 1 rope.

Now, my rope is a 1/2 rope, 8.1mm and 60m long (mammut phoenix dry). After searching for a while over the internet I could only found this piece of info at this website:


It says:

"When dealing with ...
Read more : 3 people. 1 rope on steep snow | Views : 2913 | Replies : 10

Training Length/Efficiency: Running vs. Cycling

People always say that you have to cycle about twice as long as you run to get the same results. I don't quite understand why. If I cycle for 30min at a heart rate of 160bpm, or I run for 30min at a heart rate of 160bpm, I should have the same cardio workout. No? I get that I'm training different muscles, but apart from that I really can't see the difference.

I'm asking since ...
Read more : Training Length/Efficiency: Running vs. Cycling | Views : 10356 | Replies : 15

Crack too wide for gear

What are the alternatives? Cams, hexes, nothing goes in.

It is a 8-9 meter high crack and i want to protect it. It is still unclimbed and the options i see for now is to make some kind of a cam with a pieces of wood and smash it in with my axe while climbing, other is to put a bolt in (bulgarians love sportclimbing because it is cheaper than trad ...)

Is there some ...
Read more : Crack too wide for gear | Views : 2909 | Replies : 38

Leaving your Pack Behind

Good morning SP, I thought I would start a discussion here after coming across a sketchy piece of "beta" in one of my climbing guides.

If you are in the PAC NW, you are most likely familiar with Fred Beckey and his "Cascade Alpine Guide" series of books. Although there are still some significant errors (even in the 3rd Ed.), these are generally great guides, and they have been one of my driving inspirations in ...
Read more : Leaving your Pack Behind | Views : 5964 | Replies : 26

Ya gotta fall

I've been rock climbing about 14 years now, with long periods where I maybe got better at some aspect of the whole game, but not others. In fact, climbing grade was at a standstill for a long time, topping out in the high 5.10s or 6a/b. Now I'm enjoying some real growth and having more fun with it than in a long time. For me, the secret was learning how to get comfortable with lead ...
Read more : Ya gotta fall | Views : 2986 | Replies : 21

Benefits of HR monitoring for training?

I've been thinking about getting a heart rate monitor for a while, but can't quite convince myself that it will have significant impact on my training. How much more data does a (non-elite) athlete need than time (stopwatch) and distance (online mapping)? As long as I'm trying to go faster for longer and further do I need to do more to optimize the results I'm getting? Perhaps it's because I haven't taken the time to ...
Read more : Benefits of HR monitoring for training? | Views : 3767 | Replies : 26

infinite loop question

Has anybody used this system? http://pullharder.org/2012/02/22/the-in ... -sheridan/ It looks like it could be adapted for simul-climbing free pitches and not just aid. BTW, his other stuff is pretty interesting , too. Chief? EB? what do you think?
Read more : infinite loop question | Views : 1157 | Replies : 10

Best belay anchor?

I thought I would ask because Excitableboy's link to the cordelette vs. sliding x article in a different forum got me to thinking about belay anchors. In the realm of vertical rock I'm still mostly a sport climber transitioning to trad and haven't had to build too many anchors yet. With the 2 bolt anchors present on top of many crags I have been using a sliding x with limiting overhand knots on each side ...
Read more : Best belay anchor? | Views : 5730 | Replies : 32

New article by Hotoven on melting snow for water

Hotoven wrote an informative article about melting snow for drinking water, a task most us don't think a lot about, but is critically important in the high, frozen alpine.http://www.summitpost.org/view_object.php?object_id=774270&confirm_post=7

I added it to the index of alpine articles here: http://www.summitpost.org/view_object.php?object_id=772147&confirm_post=7

Also, if anyone has an article they would like to add to the index please let me know.
Read more : New article by Hotoven on melting snow for water | Views : 803 | Replies : 1


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