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Tips, tricks, workouts, injury advice.

Hang board advice for a novice?

I am considering purchasing a small hang board for my climbing fitness program and have a few questions:

1) is it even advisable for a beginner to work a hang board?

2) what sort of holds would be best for a novice that top-ropes ~5.8? I am assuming hand-width size jugs and such?

3) Is there a fairly high risk of muscle/tendon injury for someone new to the sport on a hang board?

I realize ...
Read more : Hang board advice for a novice? | Views : 7977 | Replies : 28

Weight for climbing

Became pretty obsessive with my weight the last half year and felt better in climbing than ever ... Though i think i reached my limit of what is healthy and the best on rock...

Went from 89kg to 76kg in 5 months.

Now the problem is that winter season is coming up and i feel like i have no reserve when something is going wrong...

For which climbing discipline what fatpercentage is the best? It ...
Read more : Weight for climbing | Views : 2355 | Replies : 11

to blister or not to blister...

A week ago, I made the decision to give Mount Whitney a shot before the snow hits. I have stayed in decent shape through hikes, being on my feet at work, and assorted other workouts, but I have not been training for 14er's. Estimated dates for my Whitney attempt are the 27th and 28th...so next week.

I joined a gym near work last Tuesday and have been alternating upper and lower body workouts with weights, ...
Read more : to blister or not to blister... | Views : 4053 | Replies : 14

Knee injury problem, need expertise.

I have this knee problem developed during hiking; it is only on my right knee,

The syndrome is that when I am walking downhill, when my foot strikes the ground my knee hurts, it is not regular pain, but rather I feel like a inside muscle or tendon that is underneath my knee feel intense sore, and during this pain, my knee cannot exert any pressure on it (which can be very dangerous going downhill), ...
Read more : Knee injury problem, need expertise. | Views : 4910 | Replies : 4

Flatlander City-Boy Training Based on FOTH quote

I live in New York City and work 12 hours a day all year. I have climbed Mt. Washington, Mt. Mitchell, Mt. Elbert, Ben Nevis, and got nearly to the top of Mt. Baker. I do get some breaks throughout the year and I am excited to set goals to climb during those breaks. I lift weights three times a week. I bought a Heart Rate Monitor (Garmin 610). Does anyone here use a StepMill ...
Read more : Flatlander City-Boy Training Based on FOTH quote | Views : 5959 | Replies : 20

How to Mark the Middle of the Rope? How to Mark the Middle of the Rope?

I've dealt with several ropes now that are not marked in the middle. In fact most ropes I use now days are not marked. So this makes finding the middle take more time. I had a mini conversation with a guy at a store called "Bent Gate" which he said that marking the rope with a marker can reduce it' strength over time or something like that. I admit I don't quite understand why. So ...
Read more : How to Mark the Middle of the Rope? | Views : 17818 | Replies : 72

Hiking when sick

thoughts on hiking when you're down the cold or a mild flu...some sniffles, sore throat etc? do people around here power through it or take a weekend or a few days to rest? if you do end up climbing something, do you ever find that it sets back your illness?
Read more : Hiking when sick | Views : 11733 | Replies : 16

Pros/cons of PAS for use at belay/rap stations?

I have been using a Metolius PAS for securing myself at belay/rap anchors but I have read some disturbing things about fall-forces when using same-sounds as if you can take a fall serious enough(even of a couple of feet!) to possibly pull the anchor or suffer other physical injury?

I try to make sure that I completely load the PAS to eliminate any slack, but I am wondering if there is a better way ...
Read more : Pros/cons of PAS for use at belay/rap stations? | Views : 3694 | Replies : 20

newbie question belaying from top with setback anchors

Sorry, this may be a dumb question!

There is a pretty easy top-rope climb a really short drive from my office that has fixed anchors at the cliff top. They are set back a ways from the edge, and there is a nice ledge a few feet down the cliff that you can stand on to start your rappel or belay from. I've usually belayed my partner from below and then he belays me from ...
Read more : newbie question belaying from top with setback anchors | Views : 5257 | Replies : 14

What is your Alpine Rope?

I know this is a can of worms as evidenced by the thread less than a year ago in the California forum which explored the same topic. I recently climbed North Palisade with a friend and we opted to climb the 4th class crack/face just west of the chimney. My friend brought a 8mm rope of some kind, twin or double, and a very thin rack. He led way off route and we ended up ...
Read more : What is your Alpine Rope? | Views : 7038 | Replies : 29


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