I Second the Eireannach (Innuksuk).
Don’t know for average climbers, but for myself, if coming from sea level, 20 days would be the minimum. For people like me who are not willing to suffer much, I recommend a 30-day project, acclimatizing elsewhere (Cordon del Plata). This includes enough back-up days for the unexpected (weather, etc.).
Good luck to you who are headed south,
Ario

The benefit of a longer trip is that you have more time to acclimatize. The downside is that the longer you are on the mountain, the higher your risk of having medical problems during the climb, such as cold/fu, stomach ailments, dehydration, etc. I like the idea of acclimatizing on another peak much better than staying 20 days straight on Aconcagua. Acclimatize at Cordon del Plata, go back to the hotel for a day, hydrate, eat, shower, then start the climb.

Alpinist wrote:The benefit of a longer trip is that you have more time to acclimatize. The downside is that the longer you are on the mountain, the higher your risk of having medical problems during the climb, such as cold/fu, stomach ailments, dehydration, etc. I like the idea of acclimatizing on another peak much better than staying 20 days straight on Aconcagua. Acclimatize at Cordon del Plata, go back to the hotel for a day, hydrate, eat, shower, then start the climb.

Sounds like a good plan if you have the time. 20 days straight on Aconcagua would start to wear on you. In the past, if the weather cooperates, I have found the summit is usually reached in 12 days from the the start. Then 3-4 days to get back from the high camp to Penetentes or less to get to Puenta del Inca. 16 days max. But more time gives you more options if the weather is bad.

Good luck to all this season. Cheers William

I meant to say, IF you are going to take that much time, then I like the idea of acclimatizing on another peak much better than staying 20 days straight on Aconcagua.

This approach will also reduce the amount of food/fuel you have to carry on Aco.

Alpinist wrote:I meant to say, IF you are going to take that much time, then I like the idea of acclimatizing on another peak much better than staying 20 days straight on Aconcagua.

This approach will also reduce the amount of food/fuel you have to carry on Aco.

I wasn't disagreeing with you. Yours is the plan I would use if I had the time. Cheers

I knew that. Cheers William.

It depends a lot on the individual, but our team of 4 from sea level(one of who did no training, was recovering from a broken ankle, and smoked all the way up the peak) made it in 11 days:

Trailhead to PA: 3 days
Rest day: 1 day
PA->C1: 2 days
C1-C2: 2 days
Summit: 1 day
C2->PdI: 1 day
PdI->Trailhead: 1 day

Thinking back, it may have been 12 days with a rest day at C2. I would have to look back at my TR. We planned on up to 21 days, which I would not do if I was going back. Might plan for as many as 15 to allow for weather.

Good luck for everyone!!!!!

My rant was Douc specific (no offence Douc!) For those heading there for the first time, with $14 tents and the like (did similar but only for base camp tent) more caution is definitely better than rushing. Without previous high altitude experience, 12 days for the absolute first timer is difficult, even though it is something I will do in Feb on the Polish Direct as I know my body quite well. Hanging around Aconcagua for 20 days is pretty tough, but the 20 day thing will let the novice know whether even bigger hills are bearable. It's a personal thing, I personally like to go light and fast now that I have experience, but the longer trip on my first attempt meant I got the summit and the experience of expedition like that is more than two weeks. And I got me a few nice routes on other peaks in the area too.
Anyway, hope xmas was good for all and see some of you guys on the Polish in Feb.

col

douc wrote:Hey Innuksuk, I don't mean to be @##@hole. It was what it was, a cheap tent blowing in the wind on Indepencia camp. It didn't tear or rip apart, it was just terribly windy, my options weren't much at the time, go down or see what happens. I wasn't prepared. But I am really satisfied at where I landed on that mountain, I am ready to prepare for higher.

Dude, no worries at all. None of my comments were meant in any apiteful way, they were just my advice (if of course anybody wants it) and my experiences together. Irrespective of what happened, you seem proud of what you did and you should. 90% of people heading for that peak for the first time get guided and cooked for. You did it on your own so excellent effort. Fair play to you for making the decision to turn around. I know it and it still sucks after a while, but when in context properly it makes absolute sense.

You got lucky...after an attempt you are keener than ever. That's the best...