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North Peak Ice conditions

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Re: North Peak Ice conditions

Postby Vitaliy M. » Fri Aug 26, 2011 10:54 pm

Since we got attention of one of climbers who climb in Tahoe....
Do you know what is the name of the line on the right (in Eagle Canyon)? I heard it doesn't usually form. Was more interesting/sustained than one on the left.

Image
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Re: North Peak Ice conditions

Postby paulteare » Sat Aug 27, 2011 3:02 am

that would be cutty sark right ,in eagle creek canyon
great mini pitch,only comes in here and there.
cheers
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Re: North Peak Ice conditions

Postby Vitaliy M. » Mon Aug 29, 2011 7:54 pm

Thank you Paul. I heard that climb on the left was Cutty Sark but I guess the one on the right would just be called the right variation. Thank you. Was a very cool climb, hope it forms this year again. And stays.
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Re: North Peak Ice conditions

Postby PellucidWombat » Wed Jan 11, 2012 4:19 am

The Chief wrote:What ever BOB PICKERING.

... steepness really has absolutely nothing to do with difficulty.

Over and out BOB PICKERING.


In the spirit of this comment, I went out and did a FA of a pretty difficult ice line. I think I'd rate it Wi0 (Walkable ice, 0).



Stay tuned for the feature length film :lol:
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Re: North Peak Ice conditions

Postby kevin trieu » Wed Jan 11, 2012 5:40 pm

PellucidWombat wrote:
The Chief wrote:What ever BOB PICKERING.

... steepness really has absolutely nothing to do with difficulty.

Over and out BOB PICKERING.


In the spirit of this comment, I went out and did a FA of a pretty difficult ice line. I think I'd rate it Wi0 (Walkable ice, 0).



Stay tuned for the feature length film :lol:


that's just bad form man. you are not using your feet at all.
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Re: North Peak Ice conditions

Postby aran » Thu Jan 12, 2012 2:51 am

PellucidWombat wrote:
The Chief wrote:What ever BOB PICKERING.

... steepness really has absolutely nothing to do with difficulty.

Over and out BOB PICKERING.


In the spirit of this comment, I went out and did a FA of a pretty difficult ice line. I think I'd rate it Wi0 (Walkable ice, 0).



Stay tuned for the feature length film :lol:


I see you used the camera angle to make it look a little steeper than it is, but I won't criticize!
Some tricky placements, but you pulled through it looks like- well played!
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Re: North Peak Ice conditions

Postby PellucidWombat » Tue Jan 31, 2012 6:52 pm



Full Length Feature.

Or Trip Report on SuperTopo.
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Re: North Peak Ice conditions

Postby mvs » Tue Jan 31, 2012 10:33 pm

My God. All I learned from this thread is that if I ever get down to the Sierra for those famous couloirs, I'm going to call it a snow hike and leave it at that. :p You can pin me down and waterboard me, I won't tell a number over 40 degrees. :D

Reporting from the alps, there is a funny thing over here where a famous climb called the Taschachferner Express is about climbing 3 north faces in a day. To do that, they've pretty much gotta be in step-kicking snow condition, which happens in May/June. Also the days are long. Some people toss in a 4th peak too, the Wildspitze. But I climbed the Wildspitze in April, and found this:

Image

Now this is 50 degree alpine ice. It was "highly engaging." Solid, hard blue stuff for 250 meters. (Cyrill's picks look fairly deep there, but there were lots of multiple swings to get a placement and lots of dinner plating). Seems like 50 degrees isn't a manly enough number for these Sierra couloirs. But if we are talking about hard, blue ice, it should provide plenty of adventure.

Hey Mark, you should have worn crampons in that hilarious video. :D
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Re: North Peak Ice conditions

Postby seano » Tue Jan 31, 2012 10:55 pm

PellucidWombat wrote:In the spirit of this comment, I went out and did a FA of a pretty difficult ice line. I think I'd rate it Wi0 (Walkable ice, 0).



Stay tuned for the feature length film :lol:

You should really rope up next time -- you're setting a dangerous example for people who see the video, then go out and try it unprepared.
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Re: North Peak Ice conditions

Postby clmbr » Tue Jan 31, 2012 10:58 pm

PellucidWombat wrote:...I went out and did a FA of a pretty difficult ice line. I think I'd rate it Wi0 (Walkable ice, 0).


Mark, in fact this is a good way in getting and/or staying in shape. :D
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Re: North Peak Ice conditions

Postby snowey » Tue Jan 31, 2012 11:12 pm

I love the way my thread has developed.

Looking forward to seeing Chief's response. He should be happy that he inspired a new line.
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Re: North Peak Ice conditions

Postby PellucidWombat » Wed Feb 01, 2012 9:59 pm

Never underestimate Chief Drift . . .
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Re: North Peak Ice conditions

Postby Rob » Thu Feb 02, 2012 6:00 pm

[quote="mvs"]

Image

Great picture! That looks crazy!!!
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Re: North Peak Ice conditions

Postby SeanReedy » Fri Feb 03, 2012 3:57 am

snowey wrote:I love the way my thread has developed.

Looking forward to seeing Chief's response. He should be happy that he inspired a new line.


...reminds me of a song I used to sing at summer camp.



THE ZULU WARRIOR
From the film "Rope Of Sand" (1949)
(Josef Marais)
Josef Marais & Miranda (Film Soundtrack) - 1949
The Brothers Four - 1960
Also recorded by: Mitch Miller & His Orch.

I come a-zimba, zimba, zayo
I come a-zimba, zimba, zee
I come a-zimba, zimba, zayo
I come a-zimba, zimba, zee

See him there (He's ev'rywhere), the Zulu warrior (He's ev'rywhere)
See him there (He's ev'rywhere), the Zulu chief, chief, chief
See him there (He doesn't care), the Zulu warrior (He doesn't care)
See him there (He doesn't care), the Zulu chief, chief, chief, chief

I come a-zimba, zimba, zayo
I come a-zimba, zimba, zee
I come a-zimba, zimba, zayo
I come a-zimba, zimba, zee
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Re: North Peak Ice conditions

Postby Gak Icenberg » Sat Feb 11, 2012 6:46 am

funny stuff! :mrgreen:
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