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Mount Muir's East Buttress

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Mount Muir's East Buttress

Postby Dave Daly » Mon Jul 30, 2007 6:00 pm

Been looking at the summit log of Mt. Muir (for those that have done the East Buttress) and seeing mixed reviews. One person described it as "aweful", Misha makes a neutral comment (mostly beta info), and one person said it was great. Secor (who I only use as a basic reference but never beleive half of what he mentions! :P) seems to make it out as a classic line to the summit. I was considering it as a dayhike here in 2 weeks and wanted some honest feedback. Anyone else game to join me?
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Postby ChuckO » Mon Jul 30, 2007 6:21 pm

Dave - see below thread from a month or so ago. I've climbed with Physics, and would trust his "taste" in conditions/etc. Wish I could join you, Muir's still on my list ... ping me later in the season (or next) if your trip falls thru.

http://www.summitpost.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=20486&highlight=muir

In other news, I sent you a PM ......
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Postby Dave Daly » Mon Jul 30, 2007 7:03 pm

Thanks Chuck. Hmmmm......considering if it's really worth doing or not. Then again, I don't feel like cheesing out on doing Muir via the Whitney Trail either.

Sent you a PM with beta on Swiss Arete
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Postby Misha » Thu Oct 08, 2009 4:55 am

Cmon guys, sack up :) It is nowhere near as loose as many routes in the Sierra. Is it loose? Yes, a bit. Is it unbearable and disgusting? No way! I found its "looseness" comparable to some routes on Temple Crag. Try climbing the first two pitches of NE Arete of Split if you want to experience loose.

My route beta describes how to get past the obstacles. Routefinding there is not terrible but I can see people getting discouraged if they take a wrong turn. The cleanest line on this buttress appears to be on very crest but you'd have to climb some 5.9.
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