Japan North Alps - Myojin san

Regional discussion and conditions reports for Asia. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the Asia Climbing Partners section.
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Iainhw

 
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Japan North Alps - Myojin san

by Iainhw » Mon Oct 03, 2005 2:27 pm

Anyone climbed the eastern side of myojin san, direct out of kamikochi (not as part of the yari hodaka circuit)? I believe there is at least one pitch at grade III. Anyone know if this is avoidable. Would like to do a solo ascent if it's not too committing.

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Julian Pigott

 
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Re: Japan North Alps - Myojin san

by Julian Pigott » Sat Dec 10, 2005 11:39 am

Sorry to post off-topic - is there some other place I should write this? Anyway, I read with interest your trip reports of Yari and Fuji. I've done Yari a couple of times myself. Are you in Japan for the long stay? If you are doing any summer stuff and you're looking for someone to climb with then feel free to let me know. I want to get into the winter stuff too but I'm sure you wouldn't want the burden of a novice like me. Christmas 2006 I'm planning to do a mountaineering course in New Zealand - maybe after that. I'm starting saving now. All the best with getting the info you need.

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Iainhw

 
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Re: Japan North Alps - Myojin san

by Iainhw » Mon Dec 12, 2005 9:38 am

Am currently living in london but go to japan once or twice a year, next trip will prob be around next easter.
There's a ton of stuff to do in japan in all seasons. If you want a guidebook for winter ascents, there's a japanese book titled Japanese Snow Mountaineerings, blue cover, large size too big to carry with you. You'll find it in general bookshops and climbing shops. It lists "classic" winter routes all over japan.
If you want easy intro winter routes I would suggest:
Nishi Hodaka from nishi ho sanso - hut's open all year round and there will be lots of people around if you're on your own.
Komagatake (chuo alps) from cable car stn.
Aim for any of the summer hiking routes with crampons and axe and you should be fine. As ever, watch the weather...
Most of the large mtns are pretty straightforward (snow plod, easy scrambling) in winter. Deep powder and the wind can be your biggest adverseries.
I can't help you with partners (always a problem for me). Try contacting the International Adventure Club in tokyo or their sister outfit in Osaka. There will also be a Japan Alpine Club section for your area, try their website.


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