Is there anyone with information on an early spring trip to Granite? Sould a ski approach be planned for? And is the road plowed by the power company? Any beta helps!!!!

I should have clarified Granite Peak in Montana!!!

sorry!!!!!

peteb-

I don't know if any of this is more than you already know, but here's a bit of info:

From everything I've heard, the road to the trailhead is open year-round, excluding right after a large storm of course. You shouldn't have any access issues to the trailhead unless we get a big spring snow (which has happened).

I've climbed Granite as early as the 4th of July. I was surprised how much snow remained on the south-facing route above the snowbridge (it was an average snow year). You would definitely need crampons and ax(es) above the bridge in May (and the route below the bridge for that matter). Ice screws, etc. may be required to set acceptable anchors if you desire them above the bridge. Established anchors had just melted out in July when we climbed. I'd guess that all of the chimneys will be loaded with snow that time of year as well. But with the El Nino this year, perhaps May conditions won't be as snowy as other years?

The great thing about climbing early (IMO) is that travel to the climb is aided by snow cover over talus, etc. In June, I would feel comfortable in most years approaching and climbing w/o skis as the snow has significantly consolidated in most places. Late May could be a different story, especially above 10,000ft (I've skied powder above 10,000ft as late as May 25). It may be easiest to plan for a ski approach, at least above 8000ft (you'll hit significant drifts as low as Mystic, if not below). The FTD switchbacks could be quite challenging with steep sidehills and avi prone if they're still snowed in. An approach via Huckleberry may be easier/safer than FTD, although in either case there's the potential for avalanches approaching the Tempest/Granite Saddle (probably a much greater risk from Huckleberry e.g along what remains of the Granite Glacier). Which route are you leaning toward?

On my climb over the 4th of July, we encountered significant snow just above 9400ft (Huckleberry route). I wished we'd been there a few weeks prior before Avalanche Lake broke up. Traveling on the ice would have saved us ~2 hours, if not more. I'd wager that FTD will have much less snow, no matter the time of year (winter reports indicate snowpack on the plateau is heterogeneous with rock bands present even in late winter).

Good luck!

-ph

Whew... thats going to be an undertaking! It depends on when in May. I have been up there in the beginning of June and had a ton of snow to contend with. Classic slush in the day and frozen in the morning. I made it to the saddle before common sense came in and said go home.

Personally, I would scrap the ski's if you are going to do the plateau. The snow never sits evenly up there and all you end up doing is ruining ski's or taking them off and ditching them. Lots of rock is exposed and we are not talking gravel. I would take crampons for the technical and snowshoes for FTD.

I have never done the Huckleberry route but I know that there was an ass-ton of crappy snow still filling the saddle and up from Tempest to Granite. I had to sink to my hips several times to find a place to stand. I was soaked and it sucked. Granite is sooo much better in late summer.

Oh.. and bring some snow/ice pro, you will need it.

"Early Spring" doesn't come to Granite until July. May is a winter ascent. Prepare accordingly.

As stated above it's not going to be spring up there in May. I attempted it in May two years ago and was turned around by weather at froze to death plateau. Last year was successful in late June via the southwest coulior route. Still lots of snow and frozen lakes. Good luck. It can be adventurous.

Thanks for the information all. I really appreciate it. Sounds like quite an adventure!! Hmm...this makes me think a bit about our choice. Anything else noteworthy in the same area at the end of May?

peteb wrote:Anything else noteworthy in the same area at the end of May?

Hilgard: http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock/154202/hilgard-peak.html
-easy access on the west side year round, but if the Beaver Crk rd is open, try the West Fork approach

Crazy: http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock/191241/crazy-peak.html
-multiple route options on the NW face/west ridge, but access to the Big Timber Creek trailhead would most likely be limited by snow unless you went in late May

Whitetail: http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock/152110/whitetail-peak.html
-NE couloir would be a great challenge, but trailhead may still be snowed in as well before late May