Hi guys,

Mods feel free to move this into another forum if more appropriate, but I am juggling ideas about my next climbing adventure and I am starting to lean towards Denali rather than heading back to the Himalaya.

Loved Nepal last year and I feel I am ready to move up to 7000m, but the time required to travel to & from these mountains is a little prohibitive. Im looking at 5+ weeks for a 7000er and cost is quite high too.

Ive climbed above 6000m OK, and also done some semi-technical climbing up to 4000m (french PD+/AD-), and am thinking a crack at Denali might be an option.

I know it is tough, even though not that high, mainly because of the remoteness and the latitude, but how tough?

I'd like to think it will be in my range but would appreciate advice from someone that may have climbed it and also possibly climbed something in the himalaya comparible to say Baruntse?

Don't know the mountain in Nepal that you referenced, but climbed Ama Dablam and Denali. Depending upon whiich route you do on Denali, determines the match. I believe that the west rib will offer you all the challenge and excitement that you'd want - especiallly in the arctic environment. The west buttress is fun too, even though most say it's 'snow camping' up the mountain. The biggest difference between the two is transportation and energy. I ski a lot so I randoneed up the mountain until the day before summit day. Very doable and fun. The amount of energy to summit denali is substantial becuase you are carrying everything. Maybe, I'm different, but I had porters/sherpas in Nepal and it made the trip much lighter and more focused on the climb - i.e. really fun. We also did not hold back on our supplies on Denali - which made it quite the ....'work out'. Anyway, Alaksa is incredible especially the Ruth glaciear - definitely worth the trip. Have a great time regardless and be safe.

Baruntse = higher than Ama Dablam, more of an expedition rather than an assault, alot more remote, probably not as technical.

I think you have convinced me to give Alaska a crack, but Im no skiier, should be interesting

You can do Denali's dog route with just 65 lbs or so or you can also do it with 125 lbs, depending on how you pack it. Are you going to go up the Butt or take a finer line? Dumb down the gear for the West Buttress or bring lots of screws and rock pro for the Cassin. Is it gonna be fast and light from a well stocked high base camp or expedition style the whole way to 17? Skis or snowshoes? Powerlounger or ridgerest? John Deere scoop shovel or Black Diamond lightweight steel?

It all works itself out but I really enjoyed pulling a 35 lb sled and huffing a pack that weighed in at nearly the same weight. Others were looking more like the miners on the Chilkoot Trail down by Skagway who were forced to haul 1500 lbs of equipment rather then well rounded mtneers who knew how to pack for a good spell in the hills.

Your profile pic is a typical summit day pack job for Denali too. It can all go wrong up there, but proper planning will get you home safely in time for a late night snack after topping off.

I have climbed McKinley 6 times (and the North Peak once). I've been to Nepal 9 times; twice to 7500 meters and in less than ideal conditions. Nothing in Nepal came close to surviving 5 days of storms at 17k on the West Buttress. Certainly the altitude in Nepal is a significant factor, but nothing beats McKinley for ass kicking conditions, even on the 'easy' route. I stopped going to the Alaska Range when I discovered how easy it was to climb in Peru and Nepal. If you value the quality of rescue services, however, AK is the place to be. Someone will come and get you in AK; rescue is much less certain in developing countries.