when I started to climb (last century/millennium) one of the first lessons I had to learn was :
never fear to be blunt, if your partner is not skilled enough for a route, tell him and, if he doesn't understand, leave him in the refuge to think ...
I remember one famous guide (a friend of mine) that once told me :
"I'm really bored to hoist some customers like they were potato sacks, I can do it only if the route hasn't horizontal crosses, otherwise I prefer to give up, losing money but avoiding useless/stupid risks"
Modern technologies and gear make many people think they can do almost anything on the mountains, and the number of deaths (and of rescue operations) grows from year to year.
Some questions that are posted here come, clearly, from unskilled people or from people that would like to be/appear like a climber ...
I think that sweet answers should be avoided and that the only answer should be : go and attend a rock/mountaneering school
