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The Cassin Ridge

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The Cassin Ridge

Postby JLongcor » Thu Sep 09, 2010 2:05 pm

I'm planning a trip to Denali in May 2011 and hope to climb the Cassin Ridge. Any advice on logistics, equipment, or training for this challenging route? Any first hand info on Denali?

Thanks!

I submitted a video about the trip "The Cassin Ridge" at http://www.nols.edu/contest/
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Postby ScottyP » Thu Sep 09, 2010 4:41 pm

A little Beta here. Like Fort says, get the guidebook and TRAIN HARD!
http://mountaintrip.com/Alaska/denali_cassin.html

I will be back in May again but opting for either the WB again or the Rib.
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Postby Steve Gruhn » Thu Sep 09, 2010 8:08 pm

My feeling (but what do I know?) is that if you don't have any experience on Mount McKinley and you're asking on a forum like summitpost.org for information on a route as demanding as the Cassin Ridge, you'll probably be better off trying the West Buttress.
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Postby ExcitableBoy » Thu Sep 09, 2010 10:51 pm

It not for me say whether you have the chops to climb Cassin, but if you have not been to the Alaska Range before or other large ranges you may be in for a bit of sticker shock. Some good folks to talk to:

Joe Puryear. joepuryear at hotmail dot com. Super nice guy, author of an excellent guide book to the Range. Between him and his frequent partner, Mark Westman, they have perhaps more Alaska Range experience than anyone currently climbing.

Mark Westman. Also a super nice guy. Don't have his email address handy, but if you call Talkeetna Air Taxi they can hook you up. He is married to Paul Rodericks sister, Basecamp Lisa and frequenty works at TAT.

Colin Haley. colinhaley at attbi dot com (this may be an old address) Also a super nice guy. He recently soloed the Cassin very nearly beating Mug Stump's record. He will be able to give you some good advice.
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Postby JJBrunner » Thu Sep 09, 2010 11:24 pm

Have you seen this? You have to agree to see the pdf topo
http://www.supertopo.com/disclaimer.htm ... akprev.pdf
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Postby James_W » Fri Sep 10, 2010 12:57 am

I hope you are leading 5.10 trad and WI4 multipitch
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Postby James_W » Fri Sep 10, 2010 7:41 am

Hence the experience leading at a higher rock and ice level to prepare yourself for the challenges on the mountain. For example it is recommended to lead fast at a 5.7 trad to tackle Sir Donald (5.4 III)
Last edited by James_W on Fri Sep 10, 2010 7:44 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby JJBrunner » Fri Sep 10, 2010 7:44 am

I think he's tryin' to say it's an apples and oranges sort of thing...
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Postby bird » Mon Sep 13, 2010 8:37 pm

Heck yeah! Go for it! Train your ass off. Climb pinnacle buttress then climb pinnacle gully, then do the buttress again...in January. If you put your heart into it you can do it.
Or you may get off the plane and try the west rib instead... But who cares, dream big.
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Postby Snowslogger » Tue Sep 14, 2010 1:23 am

Steve Gruhn wrote:My feeling (but what do I know?) is that if you don't have any experience on Mount McKinley and you're asking on a forum like summitpost.org for information on a route as demanding as the Cassin Ridge, you'll probably be better off trying the West Buttress.


Or as a friend of mine said, "it's never a bad thing to know the descent route"!

Of course a lot of people who do the Cassin climb the West Buttress or another route first to acclimatize.
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Postby Steve Larson » Tue Sep 14, 2010 2:06 am

FortMental wrote:
James_W wrote:I hope you are leading 5.10 trad and WI4 multipitch


Neither of these will amount to much. The Cassin is leading up to 5.7 rock, with many mixed sections:

At altitude.

In Zero degree cold.

With a pack.

In plastic boots.

With minimal gear.



All the more reason to follow James' advice...
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