Superior, Speed Fly

Post general questions and discuss issues related to climbing.
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PellucidWombat

 
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Superior, Speed Fly

by PellucidWombat » Fri Dec 24, 2010 7:52 pm

For the skiers and climbers out there. The ridge they swoop over is the South Ridge of Mt Superior (5.3, 50deg snow) on their 3,000 ft descent to Snowbird. It was my first 'mixed' climb! If you're fast you can do it in 1/2 a day.

The notch one guy swoops through drops into "Suicide Chute".

Bonus prize - how many run avalanches can you spot?



(Edit: Dec 25th) Apparently SP is sometimes having trouble displaying the video. The full link is here if you have problems:
Last edited by PellucidWombat on Sat Dec 25, 2010 10:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Dow Williams

 
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Re: Superior, Speed Fly

by Dow Williams » Fri Dec 24, 2010 8:26 pm

We actually don't call snow and rock mixed climbing, rather we reserve that for steep rock and ice. Just call it your first alpine climb.

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PellucidWombat

 
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Re: Superior, Speed Fly

by PellucidWombat » Fri Dec 24, 2010 9:36 pm

I wasn't sure what was really the best term, so I used the term 'mixed' in quotes. Basically, steep snow with intermixed scrambling, so you're stashing your ax or using it for short sections, and climbing the rock in boots & crampons since there is too much intermittent snow to use rock shoes. Most of the climbs I see called alpine usually don't have snow on them (at most, they have snow at the base, and then the rock is dry), or people only climb them when they're dry. I guess it could be called an "alpine climb in winter conditions"? A bit long-winded, though :)

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Dow Williams

 
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Re: Superior, Speed Fly

by Dow Williams » Fri Dec 24, 2010 10:03 pm

You just have not traveled or climbed enough yet....much of the alpine climbing we do involves glacier travel to reach the rock. Just call it an alpine climb. Stating winter or summer conditions is just another descriptive term you could chose to include or not. Mixed climbing is an individual technique/sport to itself.

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PellucidWombat

 
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Re: Superior, Speed Fly

by PellucidWombat » Sat Dec 25, 2010 1:35 am

I've traveled and climbed enough to know that there are a lot of types of climbing that qualify as "Alpine", and in much of the lower 48 states it doesn't include ice. In Canada, Alaska, and the PNW of course most alpine routes have glacial approaches and therefore year-round ice on routes. IMO climbing types are really a continuum and this is just a silly tangent about semantics - especially since I never called it mixed climbing, but rather, 'mixed' climbing, so you're jumping to conclusions here about my understanding of proper mixed climbing (note how the quote ends on "mixed" instead of the entire phrase. Perhaps I should have been more grammatically correct and used double quotes?).

Anyways, Merry Christmas!

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Tom Fralich

 
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Re: Superior, Speed Fly

by Tom Fralich » Sat Dec 25, 2010 2:34 am

For what it's worth, I'd consider your route a "mixed" climb. In my mind, "mixed" can refer to any climb that involves more than one medium. Yours involves 1) snow and 2) rock, so it's a mixed climb. Hell, "mixed" is used routinely (and I'm pretty sure over at Mountain Project) to describe routes that involve a combination of trad gear and bolts. So to say that the term "mixed" can only be applied to a very specific subset of modern ice+rock routes doesn't seem justified, even if it was in single quotes.

Sorry Dow, we agree on most things, but I'm going to have to side with PW on this one.

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jspeigl

 
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Re: Superior, Speed Fly

by jspeigl » Sat Dec 25, 2010 2:55 am

Well anyways, that's a really cool video. Thanks for posting it.

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rasgoat

 
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Re: Superior, Speed Fly

by rasgoat » Sat Dec 25, 2010 2:58 am

Cool Video

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PellucidWombat

 
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Re: Superior, Speed Fly

by PellucidWombat » Sat Dec 25, 2010 3:21 am

tazz wrote:Wow! They have quite a bit of control to keep touching down on those ridges! Great video.


Now they just need a climber on the ridge to hand them something in mid-flight as they strafe the ridge - like a Red Bull :twisted:

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Joe White

 
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Re: Superior, Speed Fly

by Joe White » Sun Dec 26, 2010 4:01 am

Dow Williams wrote:Mixed climbing is an individual technique/sport to itself.


Yep, that's what I'd say too. And, with that said...it's a hard technique/sport to break into.

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Sierra Ledge Rat

 
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Re: Superior, Speed Fly

by Sierra Ledge Rat » Sun Dec 26, 2010 11:05 am

Psycho

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Guyzo

 
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Re: Superior, Speed Fly

by Guyzo » Sun Dec 26, 2010 6:55 pm

Gehy....

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Lolli

 
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Re: Superior, Speed Fly

by Lolli » Sun Dec 26, 2010 11:29 pm

Wow! Cool!
Age is a matter of mind and if you don´t mind it does not matter!

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Bridgeski Bum

 
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Re: Superior, Speed Fly

by Bridgeski Bum » Sun Jan 02, 2011 12:43 am

Accessing from Brighton Ski area avoids long climb allowing 2 runs - 3 if you're fast enought to sync with the bus schedule.


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