Welcome to SP!  -
Areas & RangesMountains & RocksRoutesImagesArticlesTrip ReportsGearOtherPeoplePlans & PartnersWhat's NewForum

California Ice Conditions

Regional discussion and conditions reports for the Golden State. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the California Climbing Partners forum.
 

Re: California Ice Conditions

Postby mtndonkey » Fri Mar 04, 2011 3:34 pm

rhyang wrote:A single 60m is fine for TR'ing the roadside ice. Two ropes are useful for rapping Horsetail (such as it is :) )


Thanks, Rob. Much appreciated, although kinda bummed the sun went away from the forecast, however it beats my earlier plan of being up on Cassaval Ridge this morning suffering.
User Avatar
mtndonkey

 
Posts: 290
Joined: Thu Jul 19, 2007 5:49 pm
Location: Altadena, California, United States
Thanked: 8 times in 7 posts

Re: California Ice Conditions

Postby rhyang » Fri Mar 04, 2011 5:54 pm

This time of year, I think having a little overcast is a good thing because of the sun exposure on those routes. Some pics from last March -

Heading up the tramway
Image

Carson Peak and North Gully
Image

Horsetail Falls
Image

Justin approaching the anchor
Image

Carson Peak again, from the anchor
Image

More views from the anchor
Image

The ice climbing itself was not all that steep, with hollow sections over running water :o But it was a nice hike in with some grand views, and we had the place to ourselves, quite unlike LVC. Enjoy !
Taaaake !
User Avatar
rhyang

 
Posts: 8963
Joined: Wed Apr 28, 2004 8:55 pm
Location: San Jose, California, United States
Thanked: 58 times in 37 posts

Re: California Ice Conditions

Postby fatdad » Fri Mar 04, 2011 6:03 pm

Nice photos Rob, although it was hard to see the falls under all that snow. I personally like Horsetail alot. Not hard or scary. Beautiful setting. Just a fun day of climbing.
User Avatar
fatdad

 
Posts: 1377
Joined: Tue Jul 24, 2007 9:39 pm
Location: Los Angeles, California, United States
Thanked: 83 times in 57 posts

Re: California Ice Conditions

Postby mtndonkey » Mon Mar 07, 2011 4:02 am

Horestail looked identical this weekend to your pictures from last year Rob. Breaking trail on the way there combined with the full sun was rough until the tramway flattened out towards the top. We climbed all day on Sat and had the place to ourselves. Ice is in kinda rough shape due to the recent snowfall and sun exposure; it was pretty aerated and the surface was like a snow cone, but still had a great time. We climbed Sun at roadside and it paid off getting there early due to the number of people that showed up and large guided parties. The ice was in much better shape in general, although very thin in the areas near the rocks.
User Avatar
mtndonkey

 
Posts: 290
Joined: Thu Jul 19, 2007 5:49 pm
Location: Altadena, California, United States
Thanked: 8 times in 7 posts

Re: California Ice Conditions

Postby Vicles » Thu Mar 10, 2011 2:26 am

User Avatar
Vicles

 
Posts: 50
Joined: Mon Sep 05, 2005 7:49 pm
Location: Bishop, California, United States
Thanked: 0 time in 0 post

Re: California Ice Conditions

Postby Vicles » Sun Mar 13, 2011 4:17 am

User Avatar
Vicles

 
Posts: 50
Joined: Mon Sep 05, 2005 7:49 pm
Location: Bishop, California, United States
Thanked: 0 time in 0 post

Re: California Ice Conditions

Postby SKI » Mon Mar 14, 2011 4:41 am

Vicles, put a shirt on.
User Avatar
SKI

 
Posts: 275
Joined: Sat Jan 10, 2009 2:52 pm
Location: The Cascades, United States
Thanked: 46 times in 26 posts

Re: California Ice Conditions

Postby rhyang » Mon Mar 14, 2011 2:00 pm

Climbed in the canyon this past weekend. The Bard-Harrington and Main Walls were getting afternoon sun, so it's probably a good plan to start and be done early (maybe bring skis).

No horizontal cracks in the Bard yet .. the storms this week will probably help keep it in shape.
Image

We climbed the left side yesterday, and a party did the fat route up the center about the same time as us. A guide told me Photoshop was in good shape too.

Justin starting up first pitch
Image

Me on second pitch
Image

Sunday was overcast and we got snowed on towards the top. That was kinda fun :mrgreen:

Main Wall - seemed to get lots of traffic
Image
Looked like Caveman was in !

Me leading Left Flow (WI4-), a dude was rope soloing next door
Image

Chouinard Falls - quite the scene, looked like the climbing gym on Tuesday night !
Image

Right Side
Image

Great to run into all the usual suspects :twisted: In other news, I hear Doug Nidever is recovering well -- he went x/c skiing recently, and he may be out climbing ice again soon !
Taaaake !
User Avatar
rhyang

 
Posts: 8963
Joined: Wed Apr 28, 2004 8:55 pm
Location: San Jose, California, United States
Thanked: 58 times in 37 posts

Re: California Ice Conditions

Postby JHH60 » Mon Apr 04, 2011 6:39 pm

Anyone been out in the last couple weeks? How are conditions?
User Avatar
JHH60

 
Posts: 1151
Joined: Tue Oct 21, 2008 6:59 pm
Location: Belmont, California, United States
Thanked: 87 times in 73 posts

Re: California Ice Conditions

Postby JHH60 » Sat Apr 16, 2011 11:15 pm

Climbed on Chouinard falls yesterday. The Main Wall and Bard Harrington Wall had lots of cracks and looked pretty scary but the ice was still decent on Chouinard. In the afternoon, as it got warmer, big chunks of ice started to com down from the left side of Chouinard onto the boulders near the rescue litter, which was a little scary when taking a rest, but otherwise it was a fun day of climbing. The snow was very soft on the hike in and even with snowshoes we broke through in one spot. While this is probably the last week of the water ice season, it's kinda fun to climb in such warm conditions.

Image

Image
User Avatar
JHH60

 
Posts: 1151
Joined: Tue Oct 21, 2008 6:59 pm
Location: Belmont, California, United States
Thanked: 87 times in 73 posts

Previous

Return to California

 


  • Related topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: 01gsxr1000 and 0 guests

© 2006-2013 SummitPost.org. All Rights Reserved.