Hey all,

So I signed on for the Climb for Hope expedition to Cotopaxi (January 2012), and I was wondering if any of you experienced high-altitude folk out have a training regimen before attempting big peaks. I do know that AMS can strike climbers unpredictably, but I am more concerned about maximizing my climbing efficiency on Cotopaxi. I do know that the expedition will be acclimatizing on a few other peaks before we attempt Cotopaxi itself. I've been as high as 14k on previous climbs out in the Sierra, but I spend the majority of my time in the Northeast.

Cheers,

Ryder,

I'm not much more experienced than you, but I have been up to Cotopaxi's elevation. You might want to just train as you would for a long endurance event. Check out Steve House's blog, he has training info there.

Also, everyone reacts differently at altitude. So train hard, get rest, and make sure you have some easy acclimatizing when you get there.

There are many past threads on this issue I believe and many more qualified than me to answer your questions.

Have fun and don't kill yourself!

No training can prepare your body for altitude. It does help, however, to be in the best shape possible. Exercises that increase your breathing and lung capacity should help, but that won't happen over a short time frame (probably takes years). I'd hike a lot - steep trails are good and carrying weight is good. Bottles of water work good for the weight because you can adjust the amount in mid hike. Lunges are good and so are pull ups - you can do them in the evenings after work when you can't hike.

Unless you are training at altitude (and on the East Coast you can't) just train for endurance. Genetics, hydration, fuel supply and aclimitization schedule will take care of the rest.

I kind of have limited internet time at the moment, so I cant get more information but in 2009 and 2010 our team trained by running with our mouths full of water. It meant that we could only breathe through our noses and limiting the amount of oxygen entering our lungs. Initially I was trying to suck so much air through my nose that my nostrils would flare flat onto my septum..but with time, I managed to be able to run and sprint without killing myself.

I will let you research if this method of training is actually beneficial or just plain sadism. I suspect perhaps a bit of both.

lol radson!

So far I have done quite well at altitude (10-14k FT) even though I live at sea level.

I find it extremely beneficial to Cycle, a LOT, specially on hilly terrain. I road cycle at least 4 times a week. I alternate by doing a few hikes here and there and some weight training. But, really I find it harder to climb 8-15% and above grades on my bike than anything else I have done. It takes monumental sustained efforts to get through some of the hills around here (up to Category 1 tour type climbs). Combine that with the heat and humidity around here and it gets you into shape. You will get used to working hard and feeling a bit out of air.

Also, on long bike rides one has to eat, so the body gets used to eating and digesting food at high heart rates. Very useful at altitude when working hard. Most people have a tendency to throw up the first time they try.

And to add, I found that the dry and cooler mountain weather at high altitudes allowed me to have a MUCH higher level of comfort when active. Night and day diff.

And finally, when at altitude do not drink alcoholic beverages, nothing. Drink a lot of water at night. I drink about 1L or more. I tend to wake up in the middle of the night when sleeping at altitude (~10k) the first few nights.

sneakyracer wrote:So far I have done quite well at altitude (10-14k FT) even though I live at sea level.

I find it extremely beneficial to Cycle, a LOT, specially on hilly terrain. I road cycle at least 4 times a week. I alternate by doing a few hikes here and there and some weight training. But, really I find it harder to climb 8-15% and above grades on my bike than anything else I have done. It takes monumental sustained efforts to get through some of the hills around here (up to Category 1 tour type climbs). Combine that with the heat and humidity around here and it gets you into shape. You will get used to working hard and feeling a bit out of air.

Also, on long bike rides one has to eat, so the body gets used to eating and digesting food at high heart rates. Very useful at altitude when working hard. Most people have a tendency to throw up the first time they try.

And to add, I found that the dry and cooler mountain weather at high altitudes allowed me to have a MUCH higher level of comfort when active. Night and day diff.

And finally, when at altitude do not drink alcoholic beverages, nothing. Drink a lot of water at night. I drink about 1L or more. I tend to wake up in the middle of the night when sleeping at altitude (~10k) the first few nights.

The comment about cycling on hilly terrain sounds like a very good idea. It should work the same muscles that lunges do without being boring.

Www.mtnathlete.com
See the thread below on weight lifting.
Spend the next few months getting in great overall shape. Then in the Fall start adding in hiking with a pack on and as you get closer make that more of your training...

I've been to altitude many times but take this for what it's worth. It's not training but if you find yourself out of breath or hyperventilating try pressure breathing. People have different opinions on the subject and there's quite a bit of info available on the net. I've found it helps me at higher altitudes.

http://www.trailrunnermag.com/article.php?id=62&cat=4

+1 for pressure breathing. Has worked well for me at altitude

+1 for cycling as well. I do a weekly hill climb that gains 1700' in less than 3 miles with an average grade of 14% and two spots at 23% ! Served me well for Aconcagua. Hydrate, Hydrate and hydrate..

Train from your home, be practical. The closer to sea level, the better for maximizing cardiovascular endurance and strength. If you are one with a natural tolerance of rapid altitude change, power to you. Myself, I'm pretty good, but with the addition of ingesting Diamox 24 hours in advance and for the first 36 hours out, I'm far better off.

All good advice on the training. If there is any way you could swing it, it would be really helpful to Ski for a week in Colorado, stay at altitude, on your way to Ecuador.....This would start your body acclimatizing, which technically takes three weeks. Try to sleep high. I once, before a trip to altitude, spent time in Leadville, Co. (10,500') climbing the peaks around there in the winter. Great training as well. Anyway, I believe it helps.

Ryder, The best thing to do is go climb. load a pack up with 40lbs, (its best to use water bottles) and go hit the trails twice a week, back to back if you can. then run and do functional strength training during the week and you'll be good to go.

If the expedition organizer is smart, they will build in the proper acclimating schedule.

For example, (ill probably spell these wrong)

A couple days in Quito at 9,000ft
then climb Ruchu Pincicha at 15,000
rest day and transfer to illinizas hostel
climb illiniza norte(or sur) at 16,800
rest day at tambopaxi lodge (or similar)
drive/hike up to Jose Rivas and leave that night for Cotopaxi

P.S. the company i am in training with adds in Pasachoa at 13,000 before Ruchu. its a nice little hike but i think you would be okay just doing Ruchu.

when at altitude never take alcoholic beverages, Drink a lot of water at night. I drink about 10L or more. I tend to wake up in the middle of the night when sleeping at altitude (~10k) the first few nights