First Trip to Corillera Blanca

Regional discussion and conditions reports for South America. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the South American Climbing Partners section.
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hepcat241

 
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First Trip to Corillera Blanca

by hepcat241 » Fri Apr 29, 2011 4:52 am

So I'm about to take my first trip to South America. I'll be in the Cordillera Blanca in May/June. I'm curious to know what the temperature and weather are usually like. I'm guessing fairly cold due to the elevation, but probably not as cold as Alaska, since it's technically in the tropics. Should I expect more of a Cascadian/Waddington range type climate? Thanks for any knowledge/insight in advance!

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albanberg

 
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Re: First Trip to Corillera Blanca

by albanberg » Fri Apr 29, 2011 6:02 am

Hi hepcat,

It's not so cold, but people wear double boots up high. I think you could plan on -15C for the coldest. See what others think.

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sharperblue

 
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Re: First Trip to Corillera Blanca

by sharperblue » Fri Apr 29, 2011 7:37 pm

probably the closest similarity would be the Cascades+

Night-times and early mornings down coats and thermal long undies with mid-weight gloves or mittens, but as soon as the sun comes up you're climbing in your softshell (or less) with thin softshell gloves at 21k feet. rain jacket mandatory.

So, in my very limited experience of 33 days there, down lowers not required, heavy mitts not required (but nice reassurance) double boots definitely required. Bibs are probably overkill except on the highest and coldest peaks.

With the range's latitude uniquely combined with its altitude, expect the best weather but prepare for the worst.

I have a very used pair of quarks for sale, btw ;)

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hepcat241

 
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Re: First Trip to Corillera Blanca

by hepcat241 » Fri Apr 29, 2011 7:50 pm

Glad to hear the Quarks were put to good use. Looking to tear it up with my own tools shortly! I'm feeling strong from climbing ice all winter. I've got a -10 FF bag and some LS Baruntses I'm planning on taking down there. Does that sound about right?

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Buz Groshong

 
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Re: First Trip to Corillera Blanca

by Buz Groshong » Fri Apr 29, 2011 8:17 pm

I've been there a few times. For trekking usually wear same as here in fall. When sun goes down I put on the long johns and the puffy jacket (synthetic). I sleep in the long johns; helps if I have to get up in the night. When climbing, I do wear the long johns and fleece shirt during the day and usually carry the heavy jacket in my pack. Usually wear heavy gloves for climbing, none for trekking.

It can get hot the glaciers, so layering is a good idea. When down below the glaciers it can get warm in the sun when you're out of the wind and can turn cool when you get in the shade and/or the wind picks up. Got sleeted on in one pass and the wind almost blew us away. I take rain gear, but haven't used it.

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sharperblue

 
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Re: First Trip to Corillera Blanca

by sharperblue » Fri Apr 29, 2011 9:38 pm

hepcat241 wrote:Glad to hear the Quarks were put to good use. Looking to tear it up with my own tools shortly! I'm feeling strong from climbing ice all winter. I've got a -10 FF bag and some LS Baruntses I'm planning on taking down there. Does that sound about right?


yep - that's perfect - the bag is too warm, but not by much. If you gun for the Huascarans, Huantsan or the Huandoys, you'll be glad you have it. What are you guys thinking about attacking?

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hepcat241

 
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Re: First Trip to Corillera Blanca

by hepcat241 » Sat Apr 30, 2011 7:01 am

I think we are going to take a look at Urus, Ishinca, Ranrapalca, and Tocllaraju. Maybe Alpamayo if things look good. Any suggestions for giving the tools a good workout?

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sharperblue

 
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Re: First Trip to Corillera Blanca

by sharperblue » Sat Apr 30, 2011 4:00 pm

hepcat241 wrote:I think we are going to take a look at Urus, Ishinca, Ranrapalca, and Tocllaraju. Maybe Alpamayo if things look good. Any suggestions for giving the tools a good workout?


Those are all great targets; Urus for a warm-up and then onto the bigger and betters in the same valley (less Alpamayo of course)! you'll barely need the tools for Ishinca or Urus, if at all. my only comment would be that if you're looking for solitude, that's definitely the wrong valley - the base looks like an army encampment, and everyone there is going for Ishinca and Toc (for good reason - they're beautiful, but then, its all beautiful)

Artesonraju and its surrounds are highly worthy of tool respect - the Caraz group especially as i'm sure you know. Super envious of Ranralpaca (RontheAlpaca), though - it's unbelievably awesome!

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kevin trieu

 
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Re: First Trip to Corillera Blanca

by kevin trieu » Sat Apr 30, 2011 6:50 pm

rock gear might be useful for Ranralpaca.


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