Trip: Canyonlands National Park - Moses, Standing Rock, Washer Woman
I got back earlier this week from climbing towers in Canyonlands National Park. There's a lot of different information out there about these towers. Thought I would summarize my trip, which I would highly recommend! Photos and more info can be found at http://www.snowrockandiceadventures.com/index.php?page=post&id=26
Moses: Primrose Dihedrals IV 5.11
The Mineral Bottom road is full fixed and you can drive any type of vehicle down that road. Were the road splits and goes up Taylor Canyon (5miles) you need a 4 wheel drive, high clearance vehicle to reach the trailhead. From the trailhead follow trail to base of route.
Pitch 1: 5.11+ or 5.8 scary traverse. 100ft Pick your poison. Fixed Anchor
Pitch 2: 5.10+, climb splitter crack through several small roofs, for the crux keep an extra .75 cam which is near the top of that pitch. 130ft Gear Anchor 2-3"cams
Pitch 3: 5.10, start by down climbing 5.8 then traverse 10ft and climb face and crack to next ledge. 40ft Fixed Anchor
Pitch 4: 5.10+, amazing hands to wide hands to fist! awesome pitch. 120ft. Fixed Anchor
Pitch 5: 5.11, classic "Ear" lie-back pitch. We bailed due to rain.
Retreat was easy with fixed anchors
Washer Woman: In Search of Suds III 5.10+
Approach by driving down Shafer Trail Road to access White Rim Road. Camped at Airport Campground. 1h30mins from ranger station. Highly recommend 4 wheel drive vehicle. From campground drive another 20mins to Buck Canyon or until you see Washer Woman. There is a couple cairns marking where to park and follow the path to the base of the climb 1hr hike.
Pitch 1: 5.10, hands and fists in a corner system. 120ft. Fixed Anchors
Pitch 2: 5.9+, climb through the "eye" and up chimney to wide hands to ledge. awkward moving pulling onto belay ledge. 100ft. Fixed Anchors
Pitch 3: 5.10+, climb crack system to crest of tower. 60ft. gear anchor 1-2"
Pitch 4: 5.9, traverse 4th class ledge system to summit block. Fixed anchor below summit block
Pitch 5: 5.10+, bolted summit block. Fixed anchor on summit
Descent: This is the more exciting part. From Pitch 4, make a double rope rappel over the arch of Washer Woman. Very exposed and free hanging getting into the rappel. Follow rest of the anchors down.
Standing Rock (aka Totem Pole): Kor Route 5.11
We spend another night at the Airport Campground, then got up early in the morning and drove additional hour and half to Monument Basin. There is a fixed rope that we rappelled to access Monument Basin. The fixed rope is located 300yards away from the road in a gully with two bolts. Park in wash marked with a cairn when the road gets close to the rim and Standing Rock is directly to the south. Walk 300 yards west along the rim and look for the second gully marked with a large cairn for the fixed rope. Descend to Monument Basin and walk to base of standing rock. (good beta on mountainproject.com)
Pitch 1: 5.10, climb up the crack and traverse below the roof. 120ft fixed anchor
Pitch 2: 5.10+, traverse 20ft and climb up loose crack and flakes passed and old hanging anchor to ledge with 5 fixed pins. 130ft.
Pitch 3: 5.11 or 5.10 C1. The 5.11 section felt pretty hard maybe there are some hold missing, anyways follow up and right to the summit
Descent: Rappel to pitch 1, then rappel to ground, with two 60m ropes.
More photo's on my blog http://www.snowrockandiceadventures.com