3Deserts wrote:Okay, it's March, and anything can happen between now and then, but is anyone willing to take an educated and/or wildly uninformed guess as to conditions in the U-Notch towards the end of May? I want to climb it this spring, in snow, with no ice. What doth the SP crew proclaim?
Also, traverse to Sill? Same trip? Thoughts?
3Deserts wrote:Hmmm. What you both describe is what I was afraid of.
As an ice climb, most accounts I've read describe the U-notch as moderate at worst, and I'm well aware of the ability to place rock protection on the right side, and that the bergschrund can be bypassed on rock. In fact I'm pretty sure I've read more than once that the U-notch makes a good first moderate ice climb in its own right, without requiring a whole lot of ice gear. If I can find someone more experienced than I to lead, and can augment my standard axe with a somewhat more technical second tool, and use my standard Grivel G12s, how advisable or unadvisable would anyone here say this still is as a goal?
tadman wrote:Forgive me if i have got this wrong...A little light on gully climbing.
Dana, North Peak,(Rt) or the North Couloir of Mt Abbott...
All great starter climbs. Beautiful settings, easy car to car in a day, really fun!
mtndonkey wrote:Quick update - the upper 75-100 feet of the U-Notch is pure ice and the left side of the couloir below that is all ice as well. My guess is if we don't get any more big storms, it will be an early ice season this year. The schrund was visible but covered.
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