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Crack too wide for gear

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Re: Crack too wide for gear

Postby MoapaPk » Fri Mar 30, 2012 8:34 pm

I was curious, so I checked. You would need the #5 big bro, ~$180 US each, > 500 g each. If the crack is really 40 cm... if it's > 46 cm, you are out of luck with the big bro.

Recommendation for 16" chimneys: knee pads.
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Re: Crack too wide for gear

Postby LuminousAphid » Sat Mar 31, 2012 3:53 am

If it's that hard to get gear, I would just get some hardwood, bevel it a bit on each end and then stick those ends down as you pound it in. Like you said, you may look crazy, but wood is very strong when you use it the right way
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Re: Crack too wide for gear

Postby PellucidWombat » Sat Mar 31, 2012 7:52 am

MoapaPk wrote:Recommendation for 16" chimneys: knee pads.


16" is not a crack or OW. It is a squeeze chimney.
How certain of the rating are you if it hasn't been climbed?

How is the geometric form & such? This matters a lot regarding my suggestion, as some cracks are hard to fall out of, even if they are very hard to climb up.

I just checked that size for myself and thought about some of the chimney sizes that I've climbed in Yosemite. If this 16" is not an overhanging slot, not extremely flared & you can get all the way inside and have proportions at all similar to me (I'm 5'9"), then I'd say your body is your pro! Don't bother worrying about anything else as you are completely solid in there as long as you know proper chimney technique!

If your climb is at all like old school Yosemite 5.7-5.8, then I'd say develop technique such that you don't need pro.

First pitch of Doggie Diversions is 40' or so of 5.7 chimneying at about 16" and while I wouldn't solo many low 5th class routes, I'm happy as a clam in here without any pro for the pitch:

Image
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No pro was placed, but rope was trailed to belay my follower.

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Third pitch of Flatus was another 30-40' 5.7 chimney. The piece I have below me here was the only one for the pitch, about 20' up and very optional (it was there & I had to traverse around a chockstone, so I might as well)

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5.6 Chimney in the Caverns, trailing a pack. No pro in here for about 50 ft of horizontal & 30 ft of vertical chimneying.

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More of the Caverns Chimney with no pro yet, but plenty solid.

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5.7 chimney on Desperate Straights. A very small cam was below me here, the entry was closer to 8", gradually to 9-10", and was cruiser at 16" where I could no longer fall out. Went about 40' to first piece of pro once starting the wide.

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The Remnant, Right (5.7) also starts more like 30" and tapers to about 9". No pro for the first 20' or so on this one, but totally solid.

Image
Of course 16" is also sort of the size of the wider part of the flare on Ahab (5.10b, or 6b), although it quickly tapers to about 10" where your crotch is, and about 7" deeper inside, so you can't fit inside very well and it leans out, so you can fall out very easily, so on that one I would want pro! However, many climbers have led it fine without gear larger than 6". One solution for climbing this one solidly, I hear, is doing what is called the SideWinder.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VOr8CCip2fs#t=1m27s
Last edited by PellucidWombat on Sat Mar 31, 2012 10:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Crack too wide for gear

Postby Dow Williams » Sat Mar 31, 2012 5:27 pm

as before mentioned, that is a squeeze chimney....I personally would be comfortable soloing it (we do it all the time...not an exceptional thing)...taking some regular small to medium gear in case I get a few crack feature opportunities inside
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Re: Crack too wide for gear

Postby MoapaPk » Sat Mar 31, 2012 7:16 pm

Note that PW has very little on his harness, is wearing long pants (hefty long pants), and is hauling his stuff. The knee pads are a bit flip, but some folks put thin pads under their pants or just bandage their knees before.

We can't see into the upper crack, so maybe it has flaring nasty walls and is not too deep at top. The bottom looks easy. Geez, I hope the pics in your TR will not be all fisheye views! Is that a chockstone blocking the top? That could be your biggest problem, but also the easiest place to put protection.

As a non-climber, my biggest mistake is getting caught up on pack/gear in a chimney.
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Re: Crack too wide for gear

Postby Dow Williams » Sun Apr 01, 2012 5:55 pm

You sure you do not have your grades mixed up on the conversion??? based on the photo, that exit would not be labeled anywhere close to 5.11c in the states.
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Re: Crack too wide for gear

Postby desainme » Mon Apr 09, 2012 8:56 pm

Did you put in a 2" by 4" piece of fir or did you make a chock out of Quercus Robur?
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Re: Crack too wide for gear

Postby Fletch » Mon Apr 09, 2012 11:38 pm

Just toprope it.
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Re: Crack too wide for gear

Postby Hotoven » Thu Apr 12, 2012 3:37 pm

I would say just top rope it. If its a lot of fun, then consider leading it, but some climbs just are not worth the risk.
"Hey, careful, man, there's a beverage here!"
- The Dude, Lebowski
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Re: Crack too wide for gear

Postby Dow Williams » Thu Apr 12, 2012 4:26 pm

sjarelkwint wrote:believe me ...


hope you are not too offended that I don't...hardly ever...
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Re: Crack too wide for gear

Postby Guyzo » Thu Apr 12, 2012 7:40 pm

Bolt it if it needs pro.
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