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Peruvian Andes peak rated F, PD suggestions ?

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Peruvian Andes peak rated F, PD suggestions ?

Postby Raj217 » Thu May 31, 2012 8:08 pm

I am planning to climb a 5000m peak in Peruvian Andes without guide services.

any suggestions on F, PD rated 5000m peaks in Peruvian Andes which can be do-it-yourself climb ?

I climb in the Cascades on my own, peaks that are rated class 3 in YDS. that would loosely translate to F, PD ratings, correct ?

thanks.
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Re: Peruvian Andes peak rated F, PD suggestions ?

Postby shottolo » Fri Jun 01, 2012 7:51 am

Ishinca (F) and Urus (F+/PD-) are pretty and the base camp is the same, 3 hours walk from Pashpa
in 3 days you can do this mountains
first day: Huaraz - Pashpa - base camp
second day: base camp - Urus - base camp
third day: base camp - Ishinca - base camp - Pashpa - Huaraz

great views of Tocllaraju from the base camp ;)

Vallunaraju is also an easy peak (need 2 days)

Pisco is a little bit more difficult... i think something like PD(+) but really no problem (you need 3 days for this trip)

i'll fly from Italy to Huaraz tomorrow... see you at Cafè Andino :D
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Re: Peruvian Andes peak rated F, PD suggestions ?

Postby rgg » Fri Jun 01, 2012 3:11 pm

Some other easy peaks you might have a look at:

Image
Maparaju (5326m)

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Jatunmontepuncu (5415m)

I soloed both of them last year. Both have small glaciers. There are some crevasses, so it's not without risk. There was a trail on Maparaju, but on the S side of Jatunmontepuncu there wasn't.
I would rate the normal route on Maparaju F, on Jatunmontepuncu F/PD. On Maparaju, the weather wasn't great and I couldn't even see the famous Cayesh, but on Jatunmontepuncu the views were breathtaking. Camping high on its slopes, this is what I saw the next morning:

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San Juan and Huantsán at daybreak

And this summit view has been my screen saver for quite a while now:

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Palcaraju and Pucaranra from the summit of Jatunmontepuncu


If you look further than the Cordillera Blanca, there a lots of volcanoes over 5000m in the south of Peru, and some even over 6000m. Most are F and only the highest ones have glaciers. The most popular ones are Misti (5822m) and Chachani (6057m), right next to Arequipa, both technically easy climbs. There is no glacier on top, but with luck you have some snow to deal with, in which case you might need crampons.

Good luck, Rob
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Re: Peruvian Andes peak rated F, PD suggestions ?

Postby Scott » Fri Jun 01, 2012 6:10 pm

Which part of Peru? It's a big country. Most of the peaks around Arequipa, for example meet that criteria, but in the Cord. Blanca the above would be good.

If you went to the Huayhuash, Leon Huaccanan might be worth a try.

The Cord. La Raya has many peaks in the F and PD range.

I climb in the Cascades on my own, peaks that are rated class 3 in YDS. that would loosely translate to F, PD ratings, correct ?


No, not really. The DC or Emmons Glacier routes on Rainier are PD. South Ridge Adams is an easy F. South Face of Hood is still probably an F.
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