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Mt. Carillon from Lake Tulainyo?

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Mt. Carillon from Lake Tulainyo?

Postby Elwood » Wed Jul 04, 2012 7:28 am

I'm planning on doing the North Arete of Mt. Russell from Lake Tulainyo. Coming in off the PCT at Wallace Creek. And, while in this remote area, I thought I might as well try Mt. Carillon from Lake Tulainyo, if possible? Does anyone have any recommendations on a route from the lake to the summit? Thanks! Elwood
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Re: Mt. Carillon from Lake Tulainyo?

Postby Elwood » Wed Jul 04, 2012 8:54 am

Thanks for the info! No Clyde motavation needed, I've been chasing his footprints for 30-yrs. I can't keep up with him, he's the Man!
Not to change the subject, but since I'm in the area, & have been looking at this mountain for a long time! How about Mt. Carl Heller(East Arete)? I've read & seen photos in the Sierra Classics book & R.J. Secor. But I've yet to find it on my maps? It looks like it might be close to Mt. Hale, but not sure? How about the climb itself? It looks like a Dandy!
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Re: Mt. Carillon from Lake Tulainyo?

Postby Elwood » Wed Jul 04, 2012 6:15 pm

Awesome! That worked perfect, I knew those contour lines of that East Arete of Mt. Carl Heller would expose itself, once I knew where it was on the map. How difficult is Cleaver Col? Because one of my buddies is a backpacking/fishing guy & wants to try those Wallace Lakes.
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Re: Mt. Carillon from Lake Tulainyo?

Postby Vitaliy M. » Wed Jul 04, 2012 8:26 pm

Cleaver col has a short 3rd class section I remember.

East Ridge of Carl Heller is awesome.

You can take north ridge of Russell up, take the east ridge down and go up Carillon (15 min detour). Descent down the notch between Carillon and Russell back to Tuainyo lake (cl 2). Or do what 3deserts suggests too. I think you will have plenty of fun.
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Re: Mt. Carillon from Lake Tulainyo?

Postby Kahuna » Wed Jul 04, 2012 9:59 pm

Cleaver North Col Route from the lake that connects with the NE Ridge, is a solid but moderate Class 3 if you stay on the obvious line. My Profile photo is from the summit after doing just this route last spring for the umteenth time.

Now the North Arete of Russell, that can get a little tricky for your buddy. It has some solid Clyde 3rd Class stuff above the notch located 4/5th up the route. That equates to encountering some solid modern day lower 4th class up and just above the notch. Clyde in fact rapped down (per his journal) a short portion of this section into the obvious notch when he did the traverse as mentioned above. I have done this route in several manners. Up, down etc. Been on the three located to the left of it as well. Good stuff.

Be safe and have fun.

Here is a shot of the NE Arete from Carillon Summit that may assist you.
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Re: Mt. Carillon from Lake Tulainyo?

Postby Elwood » Wed Jul 04, 2012 11:09 pm

No, my buddy won't be climbing, I was going to do some of that while he was fishing the Wallace Lakes. I was looking for a shorter way in, that wasn't beyond his abilities. Nice photo!
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