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Mt. Shasta Conditions

Regional discussion and conditions reports for the Golden State. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the California Climbing Partners forum.
 

Re: Mt. Shasta Conditions

Postby WillyTheDog » Fri Jun 29, 2012 4:25 am

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i think i did this right? Thought i had more pictures than this but i guess i took more detailed pics on my camera instead of my phone.

BTW, windy as all hell all through the weekend and monday, Sunday was probably the nicest day. Windy but sunny. Friday, Saturday, and Monday was cloudy and cold. On (failed) summit day (Monday) i guess there was a area on my tent that i didnt close, come morning my shoes were filled to the brim with windswept snow; kinda like a snowcone. Not being able to feel my feet got me scampering down the mountain in a hurry.
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Re: Mt. Shasta Conditions

Postby WillyTheDog » Fri Jun 29, 2012 4:30 am

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Ok, i think i got it this time.
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Re: Mt. Shasta Conditions

Postby jesu, joy of man's desiring » Fri Jun 29, 2012 4:50 am

^^^^^^^^


i wish my username was "WillyTheDog"....pure genius


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Re: Mt. Shasta Conditions

Postby Yeti » Thu Jul 12, 2012 6:14 pm

http://www.snowcrest.net/camera/

Looking atthat and wondering what conditions will be like on the West Face Gully next week. Has anyone here been up there in those snow conditions?
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Re: Mt. Shasta Conditions

Postby clmbr » Mon Jul 16, 2012 7:02 pm

I had a ride to Bunny Flat so I did Whitney Glacier from Hidden Valley and descended West Face on Sunday, July 15, 2012. The weather over that weekend was great (very hot afternoons). Hidden Valley and Avalanche Gulch routes were very busy. I saw some parties coming to the top from North Side as well.

The trail to Hidden Valley is completely clear of snow and so is most of the valley. A lot of running water flows in many places, several streams. The surrounding snow is red, however. At the entrance I was welcomed by a violin player. That person established a very nice camp there with a huge water stream just below.

The cascade Gulch up to the Shastina saddle may have continuous snow filed all the way. However, I did it at dark and had to cross rocks a few times.

Upper part of Whitney Glacier is in a great shape. I went through ice falls and they were easy to traverse. The snow was very solid. The watered ice started forming around Misery Hill but not worth to challenge yet. Watch for new crevasse openings and rock falls, though.(see pics).

The West Face looses snow coverage but still the snow leads all the way from the valley to the top. Great glissading conditions existed as of that weekend.

Casaval Ridge, the snow level low but saw the foot prints along it from the valley, so people still do it.

Whitney Glacier
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Whitney Glacier ice fall
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Whitney Glacier newly opening crevasse
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Re: Mt. Shasta Conditions

Postby Yeti » Sun Jul 22, 2012 3:46 pm

Got to Bunny Flat at about 9am on Tuesday and saw about half a dozen cars. I opted to take Avalanche Gulch since a crowd didn't seem likely. I was right, I was alone at Helen Lake for most of the day, one fella showed up a bit later for a 3 day stay. I was alone up the route the next day, too, though I passed one guy on my way down.

Summited at 9:30, didn't get down to Helen Lake until 1 due to an injury; came off at the top of the route and tumbled about 300ft of steep, icy snow before I arrested with a badly sprained ankle. It still took weight, so I traversed to red banks and proceeded down.

After about 11, the snow to the right of the heart was softened. Around the top and left of the heart was still hard, icy, and rimed up a bit when I came down. Plenty of snow left to ascend. Not much snow elsewhere, lots of scree and rocks to deal with on the hike and up Misery Hill.

http://images.summitpost.org/original/801729.JPG

http://images.summitpost.org/original/801728.JPG

http://images.summitpost.org/original/801726.JPG

http://images.summitpost.org/original/801727.JPG
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Re: Mt. Shasta Conditions

Postby Greg Enright » Sun Jul 22, 2012 4:10 pm

Glad you were able to hike out after your fall. Did the self arrest save your bacon?
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Re: Mt. Shasta Conditions

Postby Yeti » Sun Jul 22, 2012 7:21 pm

Greg Enright wrote:Glad you were able to hike out after your fall. Did the self arrest save your bacon?

It's one of those things that remembers so surreally that I'm still not sure it was real. It was a very long, icy slide and tumble at what felt like mach 7, I remember reaching out into chaos trying to get a grip on the axe. I stuck it once but it didn't bite, I think I was upside down. The second time it bit and brought me to a stop. My trusty BD raven saved my hide from a warp-speed collision with some rocks about 500ft below.

I'd felt the ankle take damage during the tumble, and I felt immeasurable joy when I put weight on it... and it held! It hurt, but it worked, and that was good enough for me. The swelling caused a blister from my crampon strap, but that all heals with time. Fee's from helicopter rides take longer to pay off. :)
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Re: Mt. Shasta Conditions

Postby clmbr » Sun Jul 22, 2012 8:33 pm

Yeti wrote:...came off at the top of the route and tumbled about 300ft of steep, icy snow before I arrested with a badly sprained ankle. It still took weight, so I traversed to red banks and proceeded down.
...

That's what I keep telling people, self arrest is the only (or the most important) skill, that may save a climber's live. Glad you made it, and made it by yourself.
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Re: Mt. Shasta Conditions

Postby Yeti » Mon Jul 23, 2012 12:10 am

clmbr wrote:
Yeti wrote:...came off at the top of the route and tumbled about 300ft of steep, icy snow before I arrested with a badly sprained ankle. It still took weight, so I traversed to red banks and proceeded down.
...

That's what I keep telling people, self arrest is the only (or the most important) skill, that may save a climber's live. Glad you made it, and made it by yourself.


Couldn't agree more. When I got back, I tracked down the name of the old guide that drilled me on self arrest all those years ago and sent him a thanks. I hadn't done it before or since.
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Re: Mt. Shasta Conditions

Postby clmbr » Tue Aug 21, 2012 7:36 pm

According to NOAA 10 Miles NE Mount Shasta CA there are areas of smoke on north/east side of Mt Shasta. I wonder if the air around Bolam/Hotlum or even Wintum glacier routes are effected by smoke. I was thinking about climbing there over the next few days but don’t want to irritate my lungs. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks.
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Re: Mt. Shasta Conditions

Postby Vitaliy M. » Tue Aug 21, 2012 7:57 pm

was driving by on Saturday and saw a few small fires much south of the peak. The air around Shasta seemed clear. Although it could change day to day with fires...
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Re: Mt. Shasta Conditions

Postby jibmaster » Tue Aug 21, 2012 8:17 pm

http://activefiremaps.fs.fed.us/imagery ... -north-000
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Zoom out and look at all the fires burning right now:
http://www.inciweb.org/incident/3052/

The one closest to Shasta is the Bagley Fire south of highway 89.

Another fire is right by the Devastated Area parking lot at Lassen.
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Re: Mt. Shasta Conditions

Postby clmbr » Tue Aug 21, 2012 10:31 pm

Thanks guys, Vitaliy and jibmaster.

So perhaps it's better to postpone the trip for a few weeks. I've climbed Shasta once with a fire around (but in one day). I did not have any issue but did not like the smell of smoke and would not really like to experience it again, especially while staying there for a few days (planning 2-3 attempts).
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Re: Mt. Shasta Conditions

Postby clmbr » Tue Aug 21, 2012 10:51 pm

Just called the Ranger Station and the smoke is visible there. It changes from day to day depend on the wind strength and direction. But it's expected to last for at least quite a few days. Too bad because I’ve been longing to do this trip for a while. I still want to climb Shasta at least 5 times this year:)
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