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How to Mark the Middle of the Rope?

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Re: How to Mark the Middle of the Rope?

Postby Burchey » Tue Sep 18, 2012 8:06 pm

TimB wrote:Guess what I am trying to say is that your trolling is getting old. You have some good things to offer, from what I see, but some of your threads and comments detract from this forum-not help it. And I think that is a pity.


Tim - fair enough. Although I feel I've been tasked to call moronic posts/posters out on the nonsense that they toss up, I agree with you that things tend to get clogged up in the open forums. I'll do my best to keep it in Off-Route.
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Re: How to Mark the Middle of the Rope?

Postby Kahuna » Tue Sep 18, 2012 8:18 pm

Burchey wrote:I guess we should all thank the Sky Wizard to have certain folks around to tell us which routes are worthwhile and which ones are rubbish.

Not at all.

Just some experiential technical equipment advise when considering taking on any obscure far less traveled route that folks like FB and others had a tendency to put up.

Route finding can be less than straight forward in many of those cases. Having a well Middle Marked cord can be a very valuable navigational tool.
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Re: How to Mark the Middle of the Rope?

Postby Burchey » Tue Sep 18, 2012 8:20 pm

A5RP wrote:
Burchey wrote:I guess we should all thank the Sky Wizard to have certain folks around to tell us which routes are worthwhile and which ones are rubbish.


Route finding can be less than straight forward in many of those cases. Having a well Middle Marked cord can be a very valuable navigational tool.


I will also thank the S.K. for middle-marked ropes.
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Re: How to Mark the Middle of the Rope?

Postby Buz Groshong » Tue Sep 18, 2012 8:26 pm

MoapaPk wrote:Remember-- this stuff has a "0" MSDS Health rating. It's not likely to contain something really nasty.....

Positing that a chemical will have very similar properties to another, just because of similar structures, formulas, or chemical families is a little off-the-wall, isn't it?....


Take a look at the two statements above. You are doing the same sort of thing you are criticizing him for - comparing apples and oranges. Health ratings have nothing to do with how a chemical might affect a textile. Sand probably has a "0" MSDS Health rating, but can definitely wear out a rope.
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Re: How to Mark the Middle of the Rope?

Postby TimB » Tue Sep 18, 2012 8:40 pm

Burchey wrote:
TimB wrote:Guess what I am trying to say is that your trolling is getting old. You have some good things to offer, from what I see, but some of your threads and comments detract from this forum-not help it. And I think that is a pity.


Tim - fair enough. Although I feel I've been tasked to call moronic posts/posters out on the nonsense that they toss up, I agree with you that things tend to get clogged up in the open forums. I'll do my best to keep it in Off-Route.


Burchey,
Thank you. It's appreciated.
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Re: How to Mark the Middle of the Rope?

Postby Kahuna » Tue Sep 18, 2012 8:44 pm

Burchey wrote:
A5RP wrote:
Burchey wrote:I guess we should all thank the Sky Wizard to have certain folks around to tell us which routes are worthwhile and which ones are rubbish.


Route finding can be less than straight forward in many of those cases. Having a well Middle Marked cord can be a very valuable navigational tool.


I will also thank the S.K. for middle-marked ropes.


You most certainly should. It clearly appears that you had a confusing time on you recent trip up the Classic EB of Whitney.

Appears you were at mix and almost got totally lost trying to exit the last pitch on your latest first time outing on the EB of Whitney. Kind of odd that you just now got on this very well traveled and straight forward Ancient Classic with all your decades of climbing experience.

I am also amazed that someone could actually give you directions from the summit when you were still some 8-900 feet below them and if were on route proper, would have been totally out of sight. You see, the route proper exits left and then a tad bit south the lower last tower before you scramble around it and then meet up with the exit portion of the East Face route. Then one heads up the last 6 or so hundred feet of Class 3 to the summit. You clearly depicted and voiced that the summit was "out of site" in this with this photo:

http://www.summitpost.org/east-buttress ... ney/812182

From your TR:

"I wasn't sure if I was still on route until I topped out right across from the lines heading up to the summit. The guide yelled down to us from the summit to "go that way", indicating to head up to our left a bit."

Very confusing at best isn't it.
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Re: How to Mark the Middle of the Rope?

Postby MoapaPk » Tue Sep 18, 2012 8:54 pm

I want to apologize now, for offending anyone in the future. Now I'm good to go!

In my humble experience -- dealing with MSDS sheets since they came into existence -- a health rating of "0" in this sort of application means something that is very unlikely to react with the organic materials in human bodies (e.g. collgen).

Buz(z), do you have a 1990s msds for "sand"? California required cancer warnings on bags of sand. I had to get rid of half the reagent grade silica in my lab because of concerns (not mine) that people might inhale it, causing silicosis. The problem is generally not the people who handle chemicals, but the lock-step zealots who enforce what they perceive as dangers, and make grand leaps of reasoning based on a their special knowledge.

I'm making the wild guess that companies who work with rope fiber, markers for fiber, and so on, have a little experience with chemistry as well.

Plus the fact that no one has attributed a rope failure to laundry pen marks, well that is a little key too.

According to the UIAA tests, dihydrogen monoxide (DHMO) is a far more serious issue with the strength of ropes-- and I bet you guys are getting DHMO (as well as sand, NaCl, and other salts) on your ropes all the time.
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Re: How to Mark the Middle of the Rope?

Postby Burchey » Tue Sep 18, 2012 8:57 pm

Chef, taking it to OR - don't want to clog.
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Re: How to Mark the Middle of the Rope?

Postby Kahuna » Tue Sep 18, 2012 9:03 pm

Burchey wrote:Chef, taking it to OR - don't want to clog.


Maybe you should follow suite from Tim B and just take it all (your insistent trolling) to OR and completely disappear on the General Forum.
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Re: How to Mark the Middle of the Rope?

Postby TimB » Tue Sep 18, 2012 9:23 pm

MoapaPk wrote:I want to apologize now, for offending anyone in the future. Now I'm good to go!

In my humble experience -- dealing with MSDS sheets since they came into existence -- a health rating of "0" in this sort of application means something that is very unlikely to react with the organic materials in human bodies (e.g. collgen).

Buz(z), do you have a 1990s msds for "sand"? California required cancer warnings on bags of sand. I had to get rid of half the reagent grade silica in my lab because of concerns (not mine) that people might inhale it, causing silicosis. The problem is generally not the people who handle chemicals, but the lock-step zealots who enforce what they perceive as dangers, and make grand leaps of reasoning based on a their special knowledge.

I'm making the wild guess that companies who work with rope fiber, markers for fiber, and so on, have a little experience with chemistry as well.

Plus the fact that no one has attributed a rope failure to laundry pen marks, well that is a little key too.

According to the UIAA tests, dihydrogen monoxide (DHMO) is a far more serious issue with the strength of ropes-- and I bet you guys are getting DHMO (as well as sand, NaCl, and other salts) on your ropes all the time.


I could just about write a book on the kind of BS that goes on with MSDS ' misinterpretation', especially by Regulators. California seems especially bad in that regard. I wonder if they even have any chemists working for the Cal. DEQ or EPA or whatever name the agency goes by?
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Re: How to Mark the Middle of the Rope?

Postby Buz Groshong » Tue Sep 18, 2012 10:31 pm

MoapaPk wrote:I want to apologize now, for offending anyone in the future. Now I'm good to go!

In my humble experience -- dealing with MSDS sheets since they came into existence -- a health rating of "0" in this sort of application means something that is very unlikely to react with the organic materials in human bodies (e.g. collgen).

Buz(z), do you have a 1990s msds for "sand"? California required cancer warnings on bags of sand. I had to get rid of half the reagent grade silica in my lab because of concerns (not mine) that people might inhale it, causing silicosis. The problem is generally not the people who handle chemicals, but the lock-step zealots who enforce what they perceive as dangers, and make grand leaps of reasoning based on a their special knowledge.

I'm making the wild guess that companies who work with rope fiber, markers for fiber, and so on, have a little experience with chemistry as well.

Plus the fact that no one has attributed a rope failure to laundry pen marks, well that is a little key too.

According to the UIAA tests, dihydrogen monoxide (DHMO) is a far more serious issue with the strength of ropes-- and I bet you guys are getting DHMO (as well as sand, NaCl, and other salts) on your ropes all the time.


Perhaps sand was a poor example; the point is that just because something is safe for humans does not mean it is safe for all sorts of things, and I'll bet your dihydrogen monoxide (DHMO) also gets a "0" health rating. :wink:
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Re: How to Mark the Middle of the Rope?

Postby MoapaPk » Fri Sep 21, 2012 4:08 pm

http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/for ... st=1947671

Interesting "thread." See note of "Safe" marking method with thread.
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Re: How to Mark the Middle of the Rope?

Postby Wastral » Sun Sep 23, 2012 1:51 am

Buz Groshong wrote:
Perhaps sand was a poor example; the point is that just because something is safe for humans does not mean it is safe for all sorts of things, and I'll bet your dihydrogen monoxide (DHMO) also gets a "0" health rating. :wink:


Can't be 0... Too much of a good thing has rather bad results...

If you want to mark the middle of your rope, place middle of rope in a 120F bath of RIT dye/water of your choice. Boom done. Use body temp thermometer, works fine. DO NOT go above this temperature.
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