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Next Mt. after Stuart

Regional discussion and conditions reports for Washington and Oregon. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the Pacific Northwest Climbing Partners section.
 

Next Mt. after Stuart

Postby lettucelord » Sun Sep 23, 2012 7:14 pm

Hello!

My friend and I climbed mt. stuart via the Cascadian Couloir with an alternate summit traverse through the Ulrich couloir then up the NW summit face. It was a little bit more than a scramble in spots. Anyways, what do you think would be a logical next step? We were thinking maybe Index, or Brothers (in the olympics). Any suggestions would be great! We are not trained in glacier travel or ice climbing, so those are a little more down the line.


Thanks!!!
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Re: Next Mt. after Stuart

Postby Josh Lewis » Sun Sep 23, 2012 8:35 pm

Index is a scumbag mountain at this time of year (the standard route). It is still hands down one of the worst routes I've ever done. Makes Luna Peak seem friendly.

Anyways, Mount Daniel is a good choice. :) So is Fortress and Chiwawa Mountain. I would suggest the Enchantments but last I heard they were all up in flames (smoke). Are you looking for overnight trips? I can suggest some fun multi day trips.
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Re: Next Mt. after Stuart

Postby lettucelord » Mon Sep 24, 2012 10:33 pm

Thank you very much .Exactly what we were looking for.
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Re: Next Mt. after Stuart

Postby Diggler » Mon Sep 24, 2012 11:19 pm

Luna Peak is a fun scramble. The approach will put some hair on your chest.
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Re: Next Mt. after Stuart

Postby Wastral » Tue Sep 25, 2012 12:27 am

Index and Brothers are both good climbs. I have done both in the spring. They are good with snow cover. I have heard they are both horrors without said snow.

Scramble peaks would be like Baring, Gunn. Across Hwy 2 from Index. Or all of the Monte Cristo Peaks. The Monte Cristo peaks offer the beginner excellent teaching tools on route finding on usually decent rock. Also the approaches are good.

Peaks that not many bring up, are those along the Mt. Baker Hwy.

A peak that is a walk up but with a great view, would be Snowking. Perfect this time of the year with fall colors. A bit more demanding peak would be Black off of Hwy 20.

All of these peaks either make Long 1 day adventures or shorty overnighters. If you want to maximize your weekend all of these peaks can generally be combined with other peaks in the area to make a short jaunt slightly longer.

Enjoy.

PS. Bring a 100 foot rope(Even 6mm is Ok for partial REPELLING ONLY, NO belayed climbing: Weight 1.5lbs)(Or if you really want lightweight got with 4mm dyneema/kevlar/Spectra 1/2-3/4lb). Will save your bacon more times than you can count when you just realized you went up something that you shouldn't have and going down is staring at death.
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