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GNP-A few Mt. Cleveland questions

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Re: GNP-A few Mt. Cleveland questions

Postby siyeh » Mon Feb 25, 2013 12:10 am

ManyGlacierMountaineer wrote:
I think you may have been there after September 1st? I have been working in the park for years and know most of the backcountry desk rangers pretty well and was still unable to acquire 2 nights at Stoney Indian during peak season (pre-Sept. 1st).


Negative. Both times were in July. Be flexible and honest those are good folks working those desks they will go out of their way to help you. Last time I did Cleveland we procured two nights at Stoney Indian then got two nights at MOK to do Merritt on the way out to Chief. All on a walk up permit. It's a great 4 night backpack and got to do two tenners on the way!
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Re: GNP-A few Mt. Cleveland questions

Postby ManyGlacierMountaineer » Mon Feb 25, 2013 7:27 pm

siyeh wrote: Negative. Both times were in July. Be flexible and honest those are good folks working those desks they will go out of their way to help you. Last time I did Cleveland we procured two nights at Stoney Indian then got two nights at MOK to do Merritt on the way out to Chief. All on a walk up permit. It's a great 4 night backpack and got to do two tenners on the way!


Hmmm. This is the first time I have ever heard of this. I wrangled with the backcountry desk two different times to do the same and didn't get it, even knowing the backcountry desk ranger, so I have to think your experience is atypical and thus not a great rule of thumb to follow for those trying to get walk-in permits/plan ahead to walk-in, especially if they have a small window to plan for. I know for a fact that the original poster will absolutely not be able to reserve 2 nights at Stoney Indian via the usual reservation process, it isn't even an option. Mokowanis Lake/Junction are definitely available for up to 3 nights, as always and Mokowanis Jct. in particular is a great base for climbing either Merritt or Stoney and is seldomly ever full, as the campsite is basically in the woods with no scenery. I am glad you got to do your trip, I've done Cleveland/Merritt in back to back days, it was incredible... and incredibly tiring.
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Re: GNP-A few Mt. Cleveland questions

Postby siyeh » Tue Feb 26, 2013 3:27 am

ManyGlacierMountaineer wrote:
siyeh wrote: am glad you got to do your trip, I've done Cleveland/Merritt in back to back days, it was incredible... and incredibly tiring.


I have done Merritt twice. Of the 50 plus peaks I have done in Glacier, Merritt has been the "loosest"

that freaking mountain is always moving as much rock coming off that baby as Kinnerly
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Re: GNP-A few Mt. Cleveland questions

Postby pyerger » Tue Mar 05, 2013 6:17 pm

Dartmouth Hiker wrote:It looks like a friend and I may be making an attempt on Mt. Cleveland next summer, probably in mid-July.
.
First of all, what are our chances of a relatively snow-free ascent? I get the impression that snowpack can vary widely year to year, and unfortunately I'm probably limited to about July 13 as a late estimate of when I'd be up there. While I can handle a bit of snow (I've done Gannett and a handful of winter 14ers), the thought of doing that mile-long traverse along the Stoney Indian Peaks with significant snow on the route makes me blanch. I'll be keeping an eye on snow depth levels as the time gets closer, and comparing with past years...

Secondly, regarding the standard route, I was wondering if anyone has also climbed either of the Maroon Bells and could compare. Depending who you ask, it seems like the standard route on Cleveland is anywhere from mostly class 2 to class 4, and it sounds like the tougher climbing is mostly going from Stoney Indian Pass to the crossover point on the ridge. Is the goat path relatively safely navigable throughout? Does the route after the pass compare with N Maroon? I was a bit on edge for that climb, but by and large had an absolute blast. S Maroon didn't freak me out at all, aside from weather concerns.

Lastly, does anyone have information on the West Ridge route? I'm looking at this as a possible alternative way to the summit if snow levels are too high on the standard route. By the easiest route, how difficult/exposed/steep is the route, both on rock and snow? I may end up buying the guidebook describing the route, but would really love to hear any firsthand experience as well.

I appreciate any help or advice anyone can offer, especially given the relative scarcity of good information on Cleveland...for such a spectacular peak, it seems to be pretty rarely climbed.
Hey Dartmouth, It's been about 15 years since I climbed Cleveland, but here goes. We took the boat across Waterton, and stayed at the Goat haunt shelters. Got an alpine start, hiked a few miles south, and bushwacked east up to the north/west ridge to about 7200 feet.(I think tree line). From there we traversed across to the west bowl, and went up the bowl to the top. There are a few class 4/5 moves,on ok rock, but not many. from the top we retraced our steps, and made it back to catch the last boat back to the hotel. It is critical to retrace exactly the way you went up, because it is easy to end up cliffed out in the west bowl.( we used orange marker tape along the way) That link, that Peakhugger sent you, with the pic of the west ridge, and bowl, also shows the North/West ridge as well.(left) I have not climbed the Bells yet, but have heard some horror stories, and would guess Cleveland is not as loose.
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