Friend and I just climbed Quitaraju's NF (variation) and Alpamayo's French Direct. After a week+ of shit weather there were a lot of climbers in camp and first day we counted about 15-16 people on route (so wen't to climb Quitaraju, - no one else climbed that even after we broke trail). Next day still many people on Alpamayo so we started at 10:30 am from tent. Took about 3 hours to climb the route without simul climbing (friend broke a pick). If you are competent this route goes really quick and there is no need for a 2am start. Basically depends on your skills set and how acclimated you are.
Wrote a blog post about it with lots of photos.:http://vividrea1ity.blogspot.com/2013/0 ... o-and.html
Hatun Machay is a nice place to acclimate too:http://vividrea1ity.blogspot.com/2013/0 ... achay.html
Good luck and have fun. It is a beautiful place.
Would love to hear is someone climbed steep South-Facing routes like South Face of Caraz I, Jager route on Chacraraju Este, or French Direct (S face) of Chacraraju Oeste!