Lightweight Crampons and Iceaxe

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ExcitableBoy

 
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Re: Lightweight Crampons and Iceaxe

by ExcitableBoy » Mon Feb 16, 2015 8:23 pm

According to their website: "The TiCa Ice Tool is not a replacement for a UIAA-certified ice axe on technical terrain and should not be used where life or safety is at risk."

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Re: Lightweight Crampons and Iceaxe

by ExcitableBoy » Mon Feb 16, 2015 11:56 pm

Yury wrote:
granite4brains wrote:Just looking at moderate angle easy snow for some basic mountaineering, nothing fancy.
I do not believe that I need a UIAA axe for this.

As long as you don't plan on climbing any snowfields, glaciers, or ice, that is true.

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Re: Lightweight Crampons and Iceaxe

by MoapaPk » Tue Feb 17, 2015 1:01 am

I'm not trying to be argumentative... But a lot of very safe stuff is not uiaa certified, because the certification is time-consuming, costly, and not amenable to rapid changes in products. E.g.: Overwhelmingly canyoneers buy non-uiaa quick links; I've never heard of a case of appropriate-weight quick links failing. Sterling or blue water don't get uiaa certification on off-the-spool 9mm ropes, because they would have to get the ropes recertified for every color change or trivial change in weave pattern; yet many climbers will buy such uncertified ropes to make the anchors that support certified static ropes.

There are skilled people who can substitute ski poles or whippets or ramer claws for low-end axes. If one decides to pick a lighter option, one must just practice and be aware of the risks. I doubt alpenstocks would get certified nowadays.

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Re: Lightweight Crampons and Iceaxe

by MoapaPk » Thu Feb 19, 2015 2:32 am


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Re: Lightweight Crampons and Iceaxe

by Euphonia » Thu Feb 19, 2015 6:20 pm

I use Camp semi-auto aluminum crampons with Salewa Raven boots. I've never had trouble. I've used them on glaciers and icy slopes of 45+ degrees. The Raven is the stiffest boot I'd use as an all around climbing and approach boot. I've also taken my aluminum crampons on mixed ice/snow/rock/scree slopes a few times and they have held their sharpness well enough. Haven't had to sharpen them yet at least.

The only trouble I've had is that the pair of crampons I got were very slightly different sizes. Leading to me using two different length settings to get both boots secure.

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Re: Lightweight Crampons and Iceaxe

by dadndave » Thu Feb 19, 2015 10:46 pm

Getting back to what was actually asked in the OP, I suggest the Simond Ocelot Hyperlight might be what you are looking for. I found mine perfectly adequate for the sort of situations you describe. Only weighs 15 ounces/425gm.

http://www.simond.com/en/cat/Ice_axes/Glacier_hiking/prd/Ocelot_hyper_light?format=pdf
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Re: Lightweight Crampons and Iceaxe

by Nikolas_A » Sat Feb 28, 2015 4:35 pm

I have the Camp XLC 390 crampons and the Camp Corsa axe. I bought them for ski mounteneering use, because they stay mostly in the pack. I don't trust the axe for serious business, like the Alps where I carried a full weight one. The crampons on the other hand I get to use more and more, even when I'm without skis. Not for ice climbing or dry tooling of course, but for general use they are great. And they handle the abuse fine, I don't have to pamper them.

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Re: Lightweight Crampons and Iceaxe

by ExcitableBoy » Sat Feb 28, 2015 5:00 pm

I find aluminum crampons are great for dry tooling - almost like using sticky rubber. Just don't expect them to last long.

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Re: Lightweight Crampons and Iceaxe

by asmrz » Sat Feb 28, 2015 5:42 pm

IMO, if you venture into mountains you might as well get the best gear possible. And aluminum just does not do it. If you say, but I don't ever go anywhere technical enough, or steep enough, or on hard enough snow/ice to use anything else, you have a small point. But, (big but), it takes only one occasion when you get into some harder snow or patch of ice, or you need to use your ice ax for something more than just as a cane and things can get dicey. These days the industry just tries to push activity specific gear and that's fine. But if you ever aspire to just a bit steeper terrain or just a bit harder conditions, aluminum crampons and ax will not likely measure up..Buy the best mountaineering (steel) crampons and short (60-65) cm axe, and you are ready for anything the mountains might ever throw at you, today, tomorrow and for the next ten years. The weight problem is miniscule compared to the increase in safety the (heavier) steel gear provides.

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Re: Lightweight Crampons and Iceaxe

by MoapaPk » Sat Feb 28, 2015 11:51 pm

I would urge folks to read the OP.

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Re: Lightweight Crampons and Iceaxe

by HRS Nomad » Wed Mar 04, 2015 2:49 am

The Grivel Haute Route is a nice lightweight ice axe. The Haute Route crampons are nice and lightweight but only worn with toe welts. Grivel Air Tech Aluminums are light as well and a good choice, as mentioned before.

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