I've done summer and winter hiking and some light mountaineering here in the Adirondacks and a buddy and I have talked about a road trip to Portland. Being less than 2 hours away, and me being drawn to the mountains, Mount Hood obviously has a lot of pull. Just fit the sake of considering it, I was wondering about Mount Hood in June-August. I am somewhat familiar of the South Side Route and plently of people seem to summit it, but my buddy has done very few hikes and mountains, though is a very good runner as far as distance and speed and crossfit and everything goes so his condition isn't that questionable. He also snowboards and has for some years so I don't see him being too sketched out as far as exposure goes, especially at 35°, which I think is the max the South Side hits (I have absolutely no problems with 35-40° at all)I have gear for him (crampons, ax, helmet, poles, pack, etc.), but neither of us have ever set foot on a glacier (pretty sure between the two of us we've never seen a glacier) and I have only secondhand knowledge of glacier travel from shows, reading and online and all that sort, so basically I have no knowledge whatsoever of glacier rescue.

So my big questions:
-Is June-August a good time to hike/climb Hood? If I have learned anything at all ever in the mountains, it is never underestimate the mountain.
-Is this a comfortable route for beginners? If we decide to do this I'll be taking him for a few hikes and climbs at the least to get him more conditioned.
-Do the glaciers pose a considerable risk?

A few technical questions too, since I'm starting a thread anyways:
-To what extent is mountaineering gear necessary, especially in the summer? I have a 30m rope and some mountaineering equipment but not enough for 2 people so to my next point-
-Is there a place to rent a harness and maybe some equipment nearby?
-Would it be worth it to bring second tools along for the upper portions of Hood like the Pearly Gates? Or are just a mountaineering ax and trekking poles fine?
-If we go on a weekday what traffic can we expect?


Can you also offer some alternate suggestions for things to do? I'd love to take advantage of this theoretical trip and really get to see some real mountains and glaciers. Dayhikes and dayclimbs are the limitation. Class 3-4 max with maybe PG-13 max exposure. Grade II alpinism max, 1 day journeys with little danger. What really matters is what we get to see though.

I'm by no means an expert on the Cascade Peaks, but I have climbed Hood, and there are some parallels to my story with yours. It sounds to me like you're ready for that next big leap.

Hood was the first glacier peak I ever climbed - and likely the first time I too ever saw or set foot on an actual glacier. My snow skills at the time amounted to making snowballs. I knew I had no experience on this type of terrain, and knew I had little opportunity to get this kind of experience casually, as there are no glaciers or peaks similar to Hood nearby me.

I went ahead and signed up for the Timberline Guides. They offered a day of basic skills such as some basic knots, rope etiquette, how to arrest, things like that. Then, the next morning, we climbed the peak. For me, it was motivating enough to keep learning more about mountaineering, even though I live in the desert and don't do much on snow ever. But it was a start. I became a rope fanatic, learning how to build fancy rescue systems with the local Phoenix-area Mountain Rescue team. I can still build one, even after all these years.

Hood is a short climb in good conditions. It has all the scary things that make it very exciting. It's not a peak to be taken lightly, but for a beginner, with a guide, it's a good way to get valuable experience. Despite what you may read here at SP or other climbing sites, no one is born being an expert at everything. Everyone had to start somewhere. If you have the fitness, common sense, past experience in hiking, climbing, scrambling and so on, you'll probably be a good candidate for Hood. In no way to I make light of this being an "easy" peak. But admittedly, it has easier logistics than most glacier peaks.

My only concern is that early in the summer is better since the snow is more abundant and offers easier travel, whereas later, the upper slopes can also be open with a mix of rocks and snow patches, making for a messier climb. Others who climb here more regularly probably have better info than I would.

All good advice from surgent. Just to add a bit to the general knowledge pool; most of the South Side route crosses the Palmer Glacier and skirts around both the Zigzag and Coalman Glaciers. The route doesn't have a lot of objective hazards from the glaciers, since it sticks mostly to the snowfields between the glaciers. With that being said, those snow fields only exist while the weather is cold enough to keep it from sloughing off. We've had an especially weak snow year this winter. See the second graph here: http://www.nwrfc.noaa.gov/snow/snowplot.cgi?MTHO3. The climb season has typically been May-July, but this year is probably an April-June type of year. On the right type of weather day (low winds, low chances of storms or cloud cover) the climb is more physically strenuous than technically difficult. Good luck!

HRS Nomad wrote:-Is June-August a good time to hike/climb Hood?

April - early June. July and August are too late even in a typical snow year

HRS Nomad wrote:-Is this a comfortable route for beginners?

Ummm, yes? Anyone climbing Hood should be proficient in ice axe and crampon use. Are you knowledgeable enough to teach your friend? Will you have an opportunity to practice? It isn't rocket surgery, but do need to drill the techniques before starting the climb. Read Freedom of the Hills for an idea of the skills you need.

HRS Nomad wrote:-Do the glaciers pose a considerable risk?

On the South Side there really aren't any active glaciers, but there is a big bergschrund below the Pearly Gates that someone manages to fall into every so often.

HRS Nomad wrote:-To what extent is mountaineering gear necessary, especially in the summer?

Very necessary.

HRS Nomad wrote:-Is there a place to rent a harness and maybe some equipment nearby?

Nobody rents harnesses that I know of, but you can easily make your own (swiss seat) from tubular 1" webbing or just tie into the rope with a bowline on a coil. BUT, if you do not know how to use a rope to protect yourself and your companion, it will only give you a false sense of security and bind both your fates should one of you fall. Better not to take one at all. It sounds like you already have all other the gear necessary - ice axe, crampons, helmet.

HRS Nomad wrote:-Would it be worth it to bring second tools along for the upper portions of Hood like the Pearly Gates? Or are just a mountaineering ax and trekking poles fine?

It sounds like you are not super experienced and your partner less so. I would not advise climbing anything that requires a second tool. The Pearly Gates can be quite easily avoided by taking the 'Old Chute', just climber's left.

HRS Nomad wrote:-If we go on a weekday what traffic can we expect?

Mt. Hood is the most climbed mountain in the U.S. If weather and conditions are good, I would expect company.

HRS Nomad wrote:Can you also offer some alternate suggestions for things to do?

South Side of Mt Adams is just across the Columbia river. You cold climb that as well, no more technically difficult than Mt. Hood. The town of Hood River is a nice place to spend a day, eat some lunch, try some local beers.

Hey guys! I'm kind of in the same boat as HRS Nomad thank you for the advice!

Just curious though I climbed Shasta last year via Avy Gulch and was wondering how Hood/Pearly Gates compares.

Pearly Gates has become quite steep and icy the last number of years, and there is a yawing bergschrund below it. So, steeper, icier, and with a worse run out than anything on Avy Gulch. Many climbers opt to take the 'Old Chute' variation, just climber's left of the Pearly Gates, which is usually easier.

EB...why exactly is july too late? I hear people doing it in July all the time

Matt Lemke wrote:EB...why exactly is july too late? I hear people doing it in July all the time

Rock fall becomes problematic. Certainly it can be done in July, but earlier in season is safer.

ExcitableBoy wrote:

Matt Lemke wrote:EB...why exactly is july too late? I hear people doing it in July all the time

Rock fall becomes problematic. Certainly it can be done in July, but earlier in season is safer.

I have heard that. Just to clarify btw I do have some mountaineering experience and have climbed inclines similar but not to this level of commitment, which is why I am taking such caution. I also have a 30m rope which I use for very short routes, training on small crags, etc., but shiuld be perfect if we choose yeo rope. Oh and thanks for all your advice! The Old Route does look "better," which came upon few comments ago. Does Adams have a similar degree of danger of rockfall as Hood? Just trying to take everything into consideration, as this is still hypothetical. Also, I see that the South Spur of Adams is "easy," as far as lacking many technical difficulties. Would rope and a helmet be dead weight? Ice ax and crampons seem a definite.

South Spur of Adams does not have the rock fall that Hood does. A helmet is never a bad idea in case you slip and fall and hit your head on something, a rope is optional.

Am I correct that they are about equal in terms of elevation gain, right around 5500 ft, but mileage wise Adams is about 12-15 miles and Hood is about 6-7 miles, while Hood possesses some more technical difficulties and dangers?

HRS Nomad wrote:Am I correct that they are about equal in terms of elevation gain, right around 5500 ft, but mileage wise Adams is about 12-15 miles and Hood is about 6-7 miles, while Hood possesses some more technical difficulties and dangers?

You are more or less correct. South Side of Mt Adams is about 6,600 ft elevation gain, I don't remember the mileage but it is roughly twice as long as SS Mt. Hood. Mt Hood is a bit steeper, and more prone to rock and ice fall.

ExcitableBoy wrote:

HRS Nomad wrote:Am I correct that they are about equal in terms of elevation gain, right around 5500 ft, but mileage wise Adams is about 12-15 miles and Hood is about 6-7 miles, while Hood possesses some more technical difficulties and dangers?

You are more or less correct. South Side of Mt Adams is about 6,600 ft elevation gain, I don't remember the mileage but it is roughly twice as long as SS Mt. Hood. Mt Hood is a bit steeper, and more prone to rock and ice fall.

Thanks for all your help!

EB has given you good advice. Hood south side routes are fine objectives for putting a toe into the mountaineering world. Only specific Hood advice I might suggest (and of course any mountaineering objective) is be aware of your surroundings. Specifically, don't blindly follow the boot track up high and traverse directly under some of the rime ice that hovers over the entry to the Old Chute. Limit your exposure to the hazard and traverse low before heading up into the Old Chute proper. Seems somebody gets clocked by a falling chunk of rime just about every year. As easy as the route may seem if you only consider the steepness of the grade, it is still a mountain, and hazards are always present.

Have fun. It's a beautiful place.

Thanks very much! I've been doing some research and have read about these Mountain Locator Units for climbing Mount Hood, which are cheap to rent and recommended. Since we don't have a PLB at this moment, this is a very nice, convenient failsafe, though I am well aware that it by no means replaces good decision making, experience and skills. I must look into GPSs and PLBs soon though.