Just out of curiosity I am wondering what people think are good prerequisites before attempting Denali? (guided and non guided)

What types of climbs, skills and experience etc

Basic mountaineering skills
Glacier travel and crevasse rescue
Winter camping
Cold weather survival skills
Good fitness

You will certainly want to climb a series of increasingly big/committing mountains/routes before attempting Denali. Technical ice/rock climbing is not strictly necessary, but will make the somewhat exposed sections more comfortable. Rainier is closest thing in size and character to Denali in the lower 48. You should feel mentally very comfortable on Rainier and climbing it should be physically easy before heading to Denali.

ExcitableBoy wrote:Basic mountaineering skills
Glacier travel and crevasse rescue
Winter camping
Cold weather survival skills
Good fitness

You will certainly want to climb a series of increasingly big/committing mountains/routes before attempting Denali. Technical ice/rock climbing is not strictly necessary, but will make the somewhat exposed sections more comfortable. Rainier is closest thing in size and character to Denali in the lower 48. You should feel mentally very comfortable on Rainier and climbing it should be physically easy before heading to Denali.

I have climbed 8 mountains over 5000m including 2 over 6000m and I am looking to do an extensive mountaineering course next up.

Was going to do Aconcagua but Denali fits in better to my schedule, just worried the step up is TOO great.

Thanks for your reply

What mountains? Altitude does not equal competency, though you clearly have a better idea of how well you do at altitude.

fatdad wrote:What mountains? Altitude does not equal competency, though you clearly have a better idea of how well you do at altitude.

All of them are kind of beginner level and non technical.

Island Peak, Kilimanjaro, Elbrus, Illiniza Norte, Cayambe, Cotopaxi, Ritacuba Blanco, Huayna Potosi.

That's why I want to step up a level, hit up an in-depth course first though, interested to know if people think I need an intermediate step before Denali.

Sounds like you have some solid experience. I think you are probably ready for Denali, as long as you get some winter training and your glacier travel skills are strong. If not, for courses, I would look specifically at Denali prep and glacier travel/crevasse rescue courses. American Alpine Institute offers Denali prep courses. RMI has a similar expedition prep course on Rainier.

Thanks EB I will look into it!

I just stumbled on this thread...

Something to consider is that Denali is a much, much longer experience than any of the peaks you listed. As such, it requires a bunch of other, "soft" skills, mostly pertaining to personal maintenance, keeping sane during extended spells at a given camp or while your rope mate is tugging at your tether, and keeping your personal motivation levels high, when there are dozens of good reasons to bail and go home.

Also, the physical requirements of working hard day after day for a week at a stretch before taking a true "rest day" can wear on a person. Being mentally tough is good, but knowing that you can keep up that sort of work before venturing up the Kahiltna might be a good idea. That knowledge can come from many other venues than just time in the mountains...

Those are things that you probably already have a good sense of, but you should definitely consider before embarking on a 3-week trip up the West Buttress.

The hard skills that you'll learn from a course are fairly easy to learn at a sufficient level to join a guided team, but the soft ones I mentioned are often learned from time in the field. Aconcagua is a good primer for those skills, as the duration of the trip is similar to a relatively quick Denali climb, and it can require elevated self-maintenance skills, when the wind has you pinned down for a couple of days.

Put time in wearing your pack!

Great comments Todd!

OPHIRTODD wrote:I just stumbled on this thread...

Something to consider is that Denali is a much, much longer experience than any of the peaks you listed. As such, it requires a bunch of other, "soft" skills, mostly pertaining to personal maintenance, keeping sane during extended spells at a given camp or while your rope mate is tugging at your tether, and keeping your personal motivation levels high, when there are dozens of good reasons to bail and go home.

Also, the physical requirements of working hard day after day for a week at a stretch before taking a true "rest day" can wear on a person. Being mentally tough is good, but knowing that you can keep up that sort of work before venturing up the Kahiltna might be a good idea. That knowledge can come from many other venues than just time in the mountains...

Those are things that you probably already have a good sense of, but you should definitely consider before embarking on a 3-week trip up the West Buttress.

The hard skills that you'll learn from a course are fairly easy to learn at a sufficient level to join a guided team, but the soft ones I mentioned are often learned from time in the field. Aconcagua is a good primer for those skills, as the duration of the trip is similar to a relatively quick Denali climb, and it can require elevated self-maintenance skills, when the wind has you pinned down for a couple of days.

Put time in wearing your pack!

HI Todd thanks for that, I have already decided to go Aconcagua first, so will keep you posted.