I've been reading online and haven't been able to find a straight answer about this.

My 2 friends and I are planning a mountain climbing trip to Ecuador in February 2016. We're thinking of climbing either Cayambe or Chimborazo (since Cotopaxi erupted recently). We're confident in our ability to climb such mountains safely and therefore would prefer to climb without a guide.

Is it at all possible to climb Cayambe or Chimborazo without hiring a guide?

Thanks.

Officially they are required, at least on the standard routes. Apparently you can get by without them if you can prove experience and are doing a more difficult route (i.e. one that is too hard for guides).

We're confident in our ability to climb such mountains safely

If so, there are plenty of mountains outside Ecuador that are similar and don't require a guide.

You're supposed to have a guide (by law). I've climbed Cayambe without a guide with no problems, but that was also earlier this year during the period when the refugio was under construction - it's now open for business - but my impression is that no one is currently checking whether one has a guide or not. For Chimborazo, the control has always been stricter. I haven't heard anything about the people at the entry gate impounding boots/crampons lately but I think you are likely to have a harder time getting in without a guide. For Antisana, forget it (sadly - it's my favorite mountin) - you need a special permit and there are three checkpoints.

As Scott says, you might be better off climbing in Peru/Bolivia if you want to avoid the guides issue altogether, but of course they have specific seasons for climbing whereas Ecuador can often be climbed year round (and the best conditions are November - February) and may be a better option if you want to climb one or two peaks and also do something else with your holidays.

Hi!

Yes, in Ecuador you are required to go with a guide everywhere above 5000 meters. In some places the controls are more strict than in others, not sure about Cayambe and Chimborazo, but since they are two of the top volcanoes and you are planning to go in high season the odds are that you'll need a guide.

I've been there with Freddy, an excellent guide -and not expensive at all!- In case you decide to take a guide, I definitively recomend him: http://bit.ly/1Lfc21a

Cheers!

I can also recommend Fredy - great guy and I've climbed a bunch of peaks with him (Chimbo and I think Antisana) and he's great. He's also very busy, but if you can get him, he's excellent.

I got back about a week ago after climbing Cayambe and Chimborazo with Fredy, I would have no problems recommending him, as far as is a guide needed, me personally I have no problem using a guide and I am not going to take time off work, pay for travel and other things just to get there and get turned around because I do not have a guide.