Hi, apologies for asking about something that has probably been covered before but anyway here goes! My girlfriend and I are going to be in Italy for about 10 days, early to mid-June and would like to have a bash at Mt Blanc if the weather is right. We live in New Zealand and have done a bit of mountaineering so I am fairly comfortable with the climb. The acclimatisation aspect is my main concern as it’s a fair bit higher than we have been before and we are pretty limited on time as we have other things to do in Italy. Two years ago we climbed Gran Paradiso with no acclimation and we were fine apart from slight headaches. This time round I know we will need to spend a bit of time up high. I am thinking of perhaps taking the Helbronner gondola up from Cormayuer to the half-way point and then climbing to the Torino Refuge. Staying a night there and then perhaps travel then next day to the Cosmiques hut via Aguille Du Midi and do the summit from there (Tres Monts route). That would give us 2 full days and nights at around 3-3.500m before going higher. I would also try and do a 2500m peak a week or two before we leave NZ. I quite like the look of the Italian Normal route (quieter) but I tend to think that because we are pushed for time and we may not be properly acclimatised it would be better to be on a busier French route with Lift access just in case anything goes wrong. Would appreciate any comments on the plan. thanks

In my opinion will either have problems right the first night at Torino hut or have no problems.
So better try to spent one night at medium altitude in advance.

I've done your route suggestion from the Torino Refuge but included the Tour Ronde normal route before moving on to the Cosmique. That way you've got a peak in which is higher than where you're sleeping, which does help the acclimatisation. Although the Three Peaks route is technically pretty straight forward, it's long! Your also doing it quite early in the season, which might help if you go down via the Grand Coloir

hi, i know this winter has been pretty dry, but consider that in the beginning of june there is still a lot of snow (i think that in normal year you can still find some skier), so routes become more tiring and long. I climbed bernina at the beginning of june, last year, and it's been physically harder than in july or august. I don't think that climbing a 2500 in NZ can really help.

BUT.. if you do it in three days, you should be alright! Especially if you sleep for two nights above 3000-3500 meters.

Only problem, is to find good weather for many days. I think the Tres Monts route might have some avalanche danger in june, after a snowfall

Hi, thanks for the replies. I have decided that the Italian Normal route looks a bit harder and more remote than we are comfortable with. I think in terms of acclimatization it might be best to slowly climb the Gouter route. We will be heading there the week before the lifts open for the summer season. I believe you can get a taxi to the top of les Houches so I thought we would try and do that, then hike to Tete rousse and stay there. Next day only head as far as Gouter hut to acclimatise. Then summit on day 3. The descent I am thinking of descending the Tres monts route if conditions are good as that lift will be operating and I don't want to walk the whole Gouter back down without lifts. I understand the Tres Monts is harder and more exposed but it appears that the crux could be abseiled quite easily on the way down? Otherwise I am tempted to take a snowboard and try and descend the Gouter route the way we came if there is still a lot of snow. Does anybody know what this descent would be like and how far we could get on snow, early June?

You won't be able to board the whole route. You can probably board from the base of the summit ridge back to the hut, and then you'll need to descend on foot from there a ways, then you can hop on the board, or glissade back to the train station.

Take the bus to les houches, then, take the gondola up to the train, then take the train to the base of the glacier. Start at 6am or so and you can make the big hut by midday. Summit the next morning and get back all in one day...

Fletch wrote:Take the bus to les houches, then, take the gondola up to the train, then take the train to the base of the glacier. Start at 6am or so and you can make the big hut by midday. Summit the next morning and get back all in one day...

Train will be out of work at this time of season usually. Also no overnight possibilities at the train station...

I've done it that way once:
1. Drive-In Les Houches, Cable-Car & Walk in to the Abri forestiere --> Slept in Tent at about 2700m
2. Easy day to gouter hut, pitch the tent and walk up to 4000m; overnight at 3800m
3. Summit & descent to Abri forestiere
4. Descent to car and drive home

I take no responsibility for this approach, esp. as far as camping (forbidden nowadays except @Tete Rousse) is concerned.

Hi, thanks. Train and cable car are both closed until 11June so we will be there too early to use them. I have heard there ii is possible to get a ride up in a four wheel drive taxi some of the way. I wouldn't mind carrying a board if I could descend to around the height of the top train station. As I understand it from the summit ridge down it is all pretty easy except the coulouir obviously which we would climb across!

third_carlo2002 wrote:Hi, thanks. Train and cable car are both closed until 11June so we will be there too early to use them. I have heard there ii is possible to get a ride up in a four wheel drive taxi some of the way. I wouldn't mind carrying a board if I could descend to around the height of the top train station. As I understand it from the summit ridge down it is all pretty easy except the coulouir obviously which we would climb across!

Gouter Route has 3800m of ascent from Les Houches, from which a taxi ride would "save" only some 300m or so for you...

I'm not into Snowboarding but I would suppose, the Arrete Bosses would require pretty good skills, as it is easy to walk but quite exposed. The passage of the Couloir makes 600m of descent, which are not possible by board and below the Tete Rousse there may be another 200m carrying the Board. Same below 2000m in mid of June.
The usual route for ski ascent and descent is via Le Mulets... but it's quite crevassed!