ksolem wrote:

Guyzo wrote:

ShortTimer wrote:


only a few hundred are worth doing more than once, so they have.......

Less than a few hundred, maybe like 50. Max.

Oh oh, I feel a list coming on.

50 max? I could name 25 stellar climbs in each grade from 5.7 to 5.12 without thinking hard about it.

Just sayin'...

I think the key here is more than once, lots to do for sure but why do we keep going back to the same ones??

Just saying

Guyzo wrote:
I think the key here is more than once, lots to do for sure but why do we keep going back to the same ones??

Just saying

That's because folks don't want to walk up to Oz, or out to The Fortress, or up to Indian Country, or be in the shade, or be in the sun, or get out of camp before 10AM...

Just sayin' ...

Great White Book: free-soloed about 50 times (sometimes drunk, sometimes high, sometimes both)
Lazy Bum: led about 50 times
Lembert Water Cracks: 20 times

I've done the SE Buttress of Cathedral a number of times now- first time, I just HAD to do it, based on its reputation, location, & just the way it looks! Another time I took a German kid who'd never climbed before up it to give him a great intro- he loved it, & we still email now & again (& the next time I'm in Munich we'll definitely hang out). 'nother time I wanted to take another acquaintance up it, & we just winged it, no topos or anything (ended up on the NE face, & with rockfall-fall-injuries, but that's another story ). Last time I did it solo, which I'd been jonesin' to do for some time. I'll probably do it again this weekend to introduce the gf to it. A stellar route- the reason I keep on coming back is the very reason I climb- it's just a blast each time.

I want to go back & do the NE buttress of Higher Cathedral again- it was a) an amazing climb, & b) a real ass-kicker. When we got to the top, I was totaly worked, but I was thinking 'whoa, that was absolutely incredible!' Perhaps no better way to finish a climb than to pop up at the top (you gotta go a few hundred more ft. of scrambling/bushwhacking, but it's totally worth it) & be greeted by a view of the Captain hisself, too.

Given how fun the climbing is, & how close it is to the parking, Bishop's Terrace is another one I enjoy doing time & again.

Another one I would love to do again (perhaps many times) is the NE buttress of Tenaya- it totally put a grin on my face for the whole day.

Did you do the SE Butt this weekend Dirk ? If so, have the crowds died down at all ?

Hey Rob,

did the SE buttress yesterday (i.e. Monday), in hopes that there would be less crowds (than Sat or Sun, for instance). This was not the case. There were at least 4 parties behind us yesterday (& we started on the route after 10.00!), most of which were fast & proficient (i.e. we were not outclimbing them)- things were crowded & hectic, to say the least. Amazingly, everyone got along well, & everyone seemed to work together to make sure that people stayed out of each other's way as much as possible to help ensure an enjoyable time for all.

Weather was by & large good (warm in the morn, chilly after noon when clouds covered the sun), but it was obvious autumn had arrived- there was a chill in the air, & the hovering feel that a storm could arrive at any moment.

Climbing itself, like always, great regardless.

ksolem wrote:

Guyzo wrote:

ShortTimer wrote:
THen there is Joshua Tree; and while there may be 8,000 routes in the place, only a few hundred are worth doing more than once, so they have been done many times in the last 38 years.

Less than a few hundred, maybe like 50. Max.

Oh oh, I feel a list coming on.

50 max? I could name 25 stellar climbs in each grade from 5.7 to 5.12 without thinking hard about it.

Just sayin'...

Wouldn't mind seeing that list ksolem. Not interested in much ove 5.10 right now but may be in the future. Me and all my climbing partners have been climbing just over a year or so and would be interested in some good climbs. I am sick of flipping through the guide book. What are your favorites?

norco17 wrote:

ksolem wrote:

Guyzo wrote:

ShortTimer wrote:
THen there is Joshua Tree; and while there may be 8,000 routes in the place, only a few hundred are worth doing more than once, so they have been done many times in the last 38 years.

Less than a few hundred, maybe like 50. Max.

Oh oh, I feel a list coming on.

50 max? I could name 25 stellar climbs in each grade from 5.7 to 5.12 without thinking hard about it.

Just sayin'...

Wouldn't mind seeing that list ksolem. Not interested in much ove 5.10 right now but may be in the future. Me and all my climbing partners have been climbing just over a year or so and would be interested in some good climbs. I am sick of flipping through the guide book. What are your favorites?

Kris only climbs 5.10 and up so his choices down low in the grades are going to be a bit skewed.

norco17 wrote:

ksolem wrote:

Guyzo wrote:

ShortTimer wrote:
THen there is Joshua Tree; and while there may be 8,000 routes in the place, only a few hundred are worth doing more than once, so they have been done many times in the last 38 years.

Less than a few hundred, maybe like 50. Max.

Oh oh, I feel a list coming on.

50 max? I could name 25 stellar climbs in each grade from 5.7 to 5.12 without thinking hard about it.

Just sayin'...

Wouldn't mind seeing that list ksolem. Not interested in much ove 5.10 right now but may be in the future. Me and all my climbing partners have been climbing just over a year or so and would be interested in some good climbs. I am sick of flipping through the guide book. What are your favorites?

Kris is hanging at The Needles for a few weeks so his list will take sometime.

Tons of climbs at JT for sure, some- a few- are really good IMHO and worth doing over and over again. Like:

False Classic Corner..... Steller stone, with tricky (for me) moves, hardest 5.6 in the monument.
Classic Corner ...... well your right there, 5.7
Nobody Walks in LA...5.9
Cake Walk ... 5.8
The Bong ... 5.5
Looney Tunes ... 5.9
Buissonier ... Good rock, tricky crack, tricky pro.... but a good one. 5.7
Overhang Bypass .... worth it, over and over because it's short .... 5.7
Sail Away ... worth the wait, it's great entertainment too .... 5.8
Double Cross .... this one has killed before, think about the pro, it's there ... 5.8
Hands Off ... 5.8
Energy Crisis ... undoubtably the best climb in the Monument Closed to traffic
Headstone ..... 5.6
White Lightning ... 5.7 wait in line.
Dogleg .... JT classic 5.9
Chalk Up Another One .... 5.10a ... Jan could crank, BITD
Invisibility Lessons .... Best 5.9 IMHO...
The Flue ... 5.8
Watanobe Wall .... named after Tobin's GF - 5.10a
Skinney Dip ... 5.7 different, but fun anyway.
Sidewinder .... 5.10b better to lead the sucker.
North Overhang ... 5.9 if this climb was any shorter, it would not exist
Bird on a Wire .... 5.10
Sphincter Quits .... thin pro practice 5.9
Bird of Fire ... 5.10
Young Lust .... I do this one everytime I am in the "Rock Garden" one of the best. 5.9
Double Dogleg .... 5.7 Nine star climb.
Rock Candy ... ezer than it looks, go for it. 5.9
The Flake .... bust out the bottom and its smooth sailing. 5.8
Bacon Flake .... 5.8 good one.

I included some ezy 5.10, most of the really good climbs are in the 5.10 - 5.11 range, steeper, cleaner .... well just more fun.
So I am sure I missed many many good ones. Maybe others will do a list. I cant wate to see Kris' list of 25 in each grade.

Get crackin

JT climbs I've done that I'd say are worth repeating:
* Double Cross (.7)- classic
* Sail Away (.8 )- another classic
* Pope's Crack (.9)- fun, good pro', sustained
* Touch & Go (.9)- fun, steep
* Right V Crack (".10a")- burly

Dingus Milktoast wrote:

Diggler wrote:Hey Rob,

did the SE buttress yesterday (i.e. Monday), in hopes that there would be less crowds (than Sat or Sun, for instance). This was not the case. There were at least 4 parties behind us yesterday (& we started on the route after 10.00!), most of which were fast & proficient (i.e. we were not outclimbing them)- things were crowded & hectic, to say the least. Amazingly, everyone got along well, & everyone seemed to work together to make sure that people stayed out of each other's way as much as possible to help ensure an enjoyable time for all.

Weather was by & large good (warm in the morn, chilly after noon when clouds covered the sun), but it was obvious autumn had arrived- there was a chill in the air, & the hovering feel that a storm could arrive at any moment.

Climbing itself, like always, great regardless.

I have NEVER understood the crowd issues on this face. There are several different ways to go. The only convergence is on the last pitch and even there you can alternate for all but the summit block.

DMT

When you're climbing with other parties are behind you, it seems like everyone will converge at the last pitch (which did happen), & the person leading the last pitch has less experience & thus takes longer than those waiting below, that person can get anxious. Add to this a summit that snugly seats 4.

I completely sympathize with the .7ish trad leader still getting comfortable with their placements, route finding, etc., for the first time on the formation, leading the last pitch, with 3 parties waiting at the last belay below the summit. I don't see it as any stretch to imagine their stress given these circumstances.

thanks guyzo I now have my list for the next couple trips. Some of those I have followed and some I have been eyeing.