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Rope Question

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Rope Question

Postby Fire4x4 » Mon Dec 28, 2009 10:44 pm

I ordered a new rope for a xmas present. I thought I ordered a 60M but ends up I clicked the wrong button and got a 70M instead. Is it worth the shipping cost to send it back to get the 60M rope or can I just take it to REI or somewhere that can cut the rope to length? Or is this something I can do my self at home? TIA
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Postby ksolem » Mon Dec 28, 2009 11:37 pm

If the rope has a middle mark, or is bi-design, you'd better cut an equal length off each end if you elect to shorten it.

Personally I've got no use for a 70, but some newer sport climbs need one.
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Postby kheegster » Tue Dec 29, 2009 1:31 am

Are you doing many backcountry climbs where the extra weight is a major factor? Otherwise I see no point in cutting the rope down to 60m.

The extra length will probably allow you to link some pitches and set up topropes/rappel where a 60m will be unfeasible.
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Postby alleyehave » Tue Dec 29, 2009 2:22 am

Don't know where youre climbing, but if weight is an issue then hack it(good point about the bipattern, etc). A 70m is pretty nice to have in the valley or multipitch trad routes in general...
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Postby Day Hiker » Tue Dec 29, 2009 3:41 am

I would rather not ruin the 70m. But if you NEED to cut it to 60m, don't waste a trip to REI, unless you bought it there and plan to return or exchange it there. Cutting a rope is no big deal, and the person you find to cut your rope at REI could very likely do a lesser job of cutting your rope than you would yourself, especially considering his and your relative interests in the rope.

Just cut it with a knife, and melt the end with the burner on a gas stove. Alternate melting and shaping with smooth pliers. Don't make the end like a mushroom. But melt it good, so it doesn't come undone.

As long as the end is fused well and is smooth so it doesn't snag, it's a successful job. Nothing with the end of a rope has anything to do with bearing load, since you can't and won't load the last two inches of a rope anyway.
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Postby kiwiw » Tue Dec 29, 2009 3:53 am

if it's a 10 mm or below, keep it at 70.
being able to link pitches and make raps in the backcountry is worth the weight of 10 meters of rope.
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Postby Dow Williams » Tue Dec 29, 2009 4:06 pm

I will sum up a bit what has already been stated. If you are trad climbing or ice climbing, you will appreciate the extra length, although we typically prefer 9.8 diameter for serious objectives. If you are sport climbing, it will never be a negative issue, so no reason to cut. Newer sport climbs will require the extra length. I would hesitate to cut a perfectly good rope myself (if you climb much in the backcountry, you will find plenty of opportunity to cut it later). You paid for the 70m, I would keep it that way. Shipping should be about $7, the price difference should be $25-$40.
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Postby Genesis » Wed Dec 30, 2009 4:29 am

I agree with what's been said. Unless weight is an issue, keep it 70. I know from personal experience sport climbing in SoCal, 70mm can be useful. I have two 60's and found myself maxin out on certain sport climbs that have 13+ bolts. I wish I had a 70 :shock:
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Postby edl » Wed Dec 30, 2009 4:32 am

70 is the new 50.
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Postby Genesis » Wed Dec 30, 2009 4:51 am

Or you can just take the Sharma approach, in which case 90 is the new 50 :lol:
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Postby Joe White » Wed Dec 30, 2009 5:17 am

F_Rhoderick wrote:
Dow Williams wrote:I will sum up a bit what has already been stated. If you are trad climbing or ice climbing, you will appreciate the extra length, although we typically prefer 9.8 diameter for serious objectives. If you are sport climbing, it will never be a negative issue, so no reason to cut. Newer sport climbs will require the extra length. I would hesitate to cut a perfectly good rope myself (if you climb much in the backcountry, you will find plenty of opportunity to cut it later). You paid for the 70m, I would keep it that way. Shipping should be about $7, the price difference should be $25-$40.


Spot on.


yep. sound advice.
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Re: Rope Question

Postby jstoshick » Thu Dec 31, 2009 3:29 am

Fire4x4 wrote:I ordered a new rope for a xmas present. I thought I ordered a 60M but ends up I clicked the wrong button and got a 70M instead. Is it worth the shipping cost to send it back to get the 60M rope or can I just take it to REI or somewhere that can cut the rope to length? Or is this something I can do my self at home? TIA


I would recommend not cutting it unless weight is an extreme issue - if you do, take equal amounts off both sides to not screw up your middle.

If you do cut it, don't butcher it because of sheath problems after a little use. Careful of the heat and don't allow your rope to unwind when you cut off the finished end. BTW - I think finishing the cut is more then just cut and melt - liquid plastic rope whipping and some shrink wrap are needed to maximize life and safety.

And if your thinking of returning - chances are it may not be returnable and if the stores does take it back, how about a follow up post to let us know of anyone reselling used climbing gear! I assume most retailers like BackCountry take the hit - so not great Karma there.

Good luck!!
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Postby CClaude » Thu Dec 31, 2009 3:23 pm

I'd leave it at 70m (if like Dow says its less then 10mm, personally I use 8.9mm to 9.7mm but mostly 9.1mm to 9.4mm). Personally I prefer 70m ropes since in reality a 60m rope can be 57m or 63m, and if you are rapping a route set for a 60m rope and you end up 6ft shy of the rap station (I've seen it) it really sucks. It also lets you run pitches together easier. I have friends that are now going with 80m ropes.
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