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tennis elbo from climbing

Tips, tricks, workouts, injury advice.
 

Postby chugach001 » Wed Sep 15, 2010 2:54 pm

Edit - Oops, everything below is about dealing with it, not avoiding it. To avoid; dont play tennis, dont showoff your strength, stretch and be gentle. As you get old your tendons lose thier flex.

here's the original post...
So I met with my Orthopedist (fatherinlaw) the other day who diagnosed me as having tennis elbow. (only about 50% of those diagnosed with T-E actually get it from tennis).

I got mine showing my kids how heavy a block I could lift with a pinch grip (idiot).

Here's the advice;
1. Deal with it. Almost all cases heal by themselves over time.
2. Take your time learning to climb differently so you dont pull on those tendons so much.
3. Take a double-dose of 250mg of Aleve and stick with it for the full 10 days. This will reduce the swelling and give your tendons a chance to relax.
4. Get a cortisone shot if the pain is intolerable. It will hurt more the next day, but will help in the long run.

I have been nursing mine but about to go on a week+ climbing trip which will work the hell out of my T-E. I started a heavy Aleve dose last night and am considering but trying to avoid the shot.
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Re: tennis elbo from climbing

Postby Ed F » Sun Oct 31, 2010 3:00 pm

I got "golf elbow" a few years back, which is the opposite side of tennis elbow (outside of arm). It took me a while to figure it out, but I was doing a bunch of bad motions with that arm (my primary) that had nothing to do with anything physical. I've actually never set foot on a golf course or have held a club, so it had nothing to do with golf.

I eventually figured out it was just a collection of bad motions: the way I drank out of cups, the way I held a pencil, and the way I used my mouse to name a few. Just becoming conscious of these motions allowed me to get rid of it. While you're healing, I'll second the anti-inflammatories. I never tried Cortisone.
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Re: tennis elbo from climbing

Postby oldandslow » Sun Oct 31, 2010 10:34 pm

Copper bracelet!
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Re: tennis elbo from climbing

Postby Sierra Ledge Rat » Wed Nov 10, 2010 1:04 am

You get it from over-using a weak tendon.

Prevent it by not over-using a weak tendon.
Strengthen the tendon - both the medial and lateral attachments. I hold a straight bar like I'm going to do biceps curls, but instead do wrist curls. Flip your hands over and do wrist extension curls to strengthen the opposite muscles.
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Re: tennis elbo from climbing

Postby Joe White » Wed Nov 10, 2010 5:20 am

I was told that preventative medicine for tennis elbow was good stretching....is this right?
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Re: tennis elbo from climbing

Postby ClimbandBike » Wed Nov 10, 2010 4:56 pm

These exercises helped my elbow. Let it heal, stretch, and then strengthen. Always warm up before climbing.

http://www.nicros.com/archive/lateral_elbow.cfm
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Re: tennis elbo from climbing

Postby Climber90 » Thu Nov 25, 2010 7:25 pm

the best thing ive found for tennis elbo(as i have it to)
1) take a week off, you only get stronger by resting
2) start drinking more water before and after yoou go climbing
3) start out with some dynamic stretching rather than static, it helps get the blood flowin with out stretching the tendons
4) negatives pull ups, from talking to alot of the climbing coaches across the u.s., negatives seem to help injuries like this one
and most of all if it starts to hurt, just take it easy for a while, let it heal now so you dont have to be out for multiple weeks later.
best of healing to ya!
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