three-to-four good 3rd class routes in Eastern Sierras

by **sanders** » Tue Aug 17, 2010 7:59 pm

Folks,

I am looking for three-four good 3rd class routes in Eastern Sierras. I know that basically each mountain has 3rd class routes but not sure which ones to pick besides Whitney's and probably Russell's:

Mountaineer's Route, Mt. Whitney 3rd class
http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/ ... eers-Route

East Ridge, Mt. Russell 3rd class
http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/ ... East-Ridge

Would you recommend any other mountaineering/3rd class routes in that area?

by **hamik** » Tue Aug 17, 2010 8:10 pm

Just look on a map (or Google Earth), find nearby peaks, look them up on SummitPost, and find the 3rd class routes. Secor's book is a great resource, too. Some classy ones, though: N ridge on Tyndall (the rib is boring--do the ridge), W face or SW ridge (latter sandbagged) on Williamson.

by **mungeclimber** » Tue Aug 17, 2010 10:34 pm

Pilot Knob

Also, there is another knob in the same basin to the south east, not too far from Goethe cirque. It has one move of 3rd/4th class. Not overly exposed, but it has a nice view of the region.

by **Michael Graupe** » Tue Aug 17, 2010 10:40 pm

Some of my favourite ones:
Trapezoid (NE-ridge)
Deerhorn
Junction (S-ridge)
University (N-face)
McAdie
Ruskin (E-ridge)
Winchell
Goethe (NE-ridge)
Ritter (N-face)
Merriam (E-face)

by **Gene** » Tue Aug 17, 2010 11:02 pm

Agree on Middle Pal.

by **seano** » Wed Aug 18, 2010 1:40 am

Another vote for Middle Pal -- good stuff. You could also do both Middle Pal and Norman Clyde (class 4) as an overnight, camping near Finger Lake.

Humphreys (class 4) is also cool, and not too long a daytrip from North Lake.

by **sdb** » Wed Aug 18, 2010 1:52 am

I would have to add Tyndall North Rib and Williamson via West Face. Both can be done in a single trip up Shepherd's Pass.

by **mrchad9** » Wed Aug 18, 2010 2:02 am

sdb wrote:I would have to add Tyndall North Rib and Williamson via West Face. Both can be done in a single trip up Shepherd's Pass.

And do the ridge from Trojan to Barnard while you're at it!

by **BCL** » Wed Aug 18, 2010 1:30 pm

Johnson, Abbot, Whorl

by **sanders** » Wed Aug 18, 2010 3:09 pm

Thank you, guys. I appreciate your advice. Shortlisted these ones:

Middle Pal
Williamson via West Face
Tyndall North Rib or Ridge
Deerhorn
Mt. Morgan
Mt. Abbot

Now I need to pick 1-2 from the list. Convenient approach to the trail and relative proximity to the Whitney area would be a plus - I don't want to waste a lot of time on driving ) Looks like the first two (Middle Pal and Williamson) are the most likable by you, guys. Any suggestions?

by **The Chief** » Wed Aug 18, 2010 3:54 pm

These two lines are definitely full value classics as well:

MORRISON

NEVHABE RIDGE TO MORGAN NORTH

by **Palisades79** » Wed Aug 18, 2010 3:58 pm

Starr and Secor both agree that Mt.Sill has the best view from any summit in the Sierra because of it's position on the crest . The Southwest slope is Class 2-3 . Have a great climb !

by **tb00957** » Wed Aug 18, 2010 4:27 pm

The ones I liked:

Russell
Ruskin
Milestone
Harrington
Goethe
Independence
Tower
Muir
Winchell
Gayley

Some I haven't climbed. Going to try McAdie and Whorl next month.

IMHO, middle palisade is steep and fun, but has some loose rocks in it. Be very careful there isn't a party above you that kicks stuff off. And university is a pile of scree, sorry.

Linda

by **rhyang** » Thu Aug 19, 2010 3:00 pm

Hopefully the OP has some good ideas by now, so I will hijack the thread for my own nefarious purposes

How hard is the traverse from Johnson to Trapezoid ? I was thinking of heading up from South Lake to Treasure Col to Johnson's NW Ridge, then heading over to Trapezoid, finally down its NW ridge and back via the Bishop Pass trail. I seem to remember someone saying class 4, but cannot find the thread.

edit: Never mind, Secor says the W Ridge from Johnson is class 3.

by **Michael Graupe** » Thu Aug 19, 2010 4:34 pm

Rob, the traverse is class 3. Maybe a little loose in places. I assume you mean the NE-ridge of Trapezoid for the descent. This is a great loop.

three-to-four good 3rd class routes in Eastern Sierras

three-to-four good 3rd class routes in Eastern Sierras

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