?Dom in October

[Woodie Hopper]

Hi there:

Is there anyone here with first-hand experience climbing the Dom in fall? I might be in the area in mid October and wonder if it might be reasonable if weather and conditions permit to plan a climb along the Festigrat or normal route at that time. I know of several people who have soloed it and would like input whether that might be also reasonable at that time. I am no stranger to high altitude alpine climbing and have done a fair amount of climbing in Switzerland including the Pennine area.

I'm mostly after the feasibility for planning purposes and chances that conditions might be favorable during that timeframe.

Thanks!

Woodie

[markhallam]

Hi
I have climbed in this area many times, including at the beginning of October. I have soloed a few of the 4000ers. I have climbed the Dom twice - normal route at the end of September and Tasch-Dom with descent of Festigrat earlier in the season. On both visits I was impressed by the crevasses especially on the Festiglacier - and not without hazard on the next one up (for the normal route). This was quite a few years ago, but a good friend tried to take his daughter and another friend up the normal route recently and they had to turn back since his daughter was freaked out by the crevasse danger, despite being roped up. I don't think this would be any less mid October - and so I don't think I'd try to solo the Dom, just because of the glaciers.
Otherwise my experience of the end of Sept/beginning of Oct you can have perfectly fine conditions to climb things, but a bit colder (Monte Rosa at beginning of October was very cold!) - and the first of the winter snows do start to come... I have seen snow in the town in Zermatt in 1st week of October (just after climbing Monte Rosa).
Mountains with safer or avoidable glaciers which I have soloed are Briethorn, Allalinhorn, Weissmies and I don't recall using a rope on the Lagginhorn or Alphubel.
Good luck!

[Woodie Hopper]

Mark,

I appreciate the advice- I realize glacier conditions can change, and that's precisely why I'm asking. Weissmies is fine. The Dom and Dufourspitze are on my bucket list, so I can find a partner, a guide, or wait until another time. At least I could also play on the Jagihorn too if I head to Weissmies.

Thanks Mark!

Best,

Woodie

[markhallam]

Hi Woodie
When I say Weissmies I mean by the SE Ridge from Almageller Hut. You can completely avoid glacier and the route has magnificent scrambling up rocky SE ridge up to a fine snow arête to finish. If you are talking Jagihorn you are talking Hohsaas to start from and Weissmies 'normal' route, which is seriously glaciated and not suitable for soloing. However from Hohsaas there is also the possibility of climbing normal route (West Ridge) of the Lagginhorn. That is another superb scramble which is suitable for soloing - albeit one short modest rock step of about II I recall. There is a tiny bit of glacier to cross but it is pretty safe. You could combine that with Jagihorn.
Good luck with finding a partner. Peaks like the Weissmies and Lagginhorn are great objectives, but not quite in the same league as Dom and Dufourspitze. Like the Dom I have climbed Dufourspitze twice - 2nd time quite recently in 2013, via the Italian normal route. The Swiss normal route I did many years ago - and both are fine routes on a fine mountain.
Best wishes
Mark

[Woodie Hopper]

Mark,

That's very much appreciated, and will help me greatly for my planning.

Thank you again!

Best wishes,

Woodie