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Weather in Muztagh Ata region

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Weather in Muztagh Ata region

Postby gert » Fri Jan 20, 2012 9:01 pm

The climbing season seems to end in august. Does somebody know about the usual conditions on the mountain in september / october?
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Re: Weather in Muztagh Ata region

Postby gert » Fri Feb 10, 2012 9:42 pm

I don't set my target to high, thinking more about Koskulak or Kuksay. September / october will be colder but precipitation should be less than in normal climbing season. The strong winds caused by high pressure area over Siberia are supposed to occur later in the year. Why I'm wrong?
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Re: Weather in Muztagh Ata region

Postby WouterB » Tue Feb 14, 2012 4:23 pm

From the information I have read, you are correct. For that reason I was thinking about September too, but finding partners proved to be far more difficult than I had expected.
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Re: Weather in Muztagh Ata region

Postby Damien Gildea » Wed Feb 15, 2012 1:48 am

sjarelkwint wrote:Guides are on the bigger mountains earning more cash ...


Maybe in September/October, yes, but there's a few reasons Muztagh Ata lost popularity.

- Many companies accessed the area through Pakistan, and that is now considered a bit unfavourable for safety reasons, or at least perceptions of safety.
- Partly they came through Pakistan to collect and use Pakistani HAPs, then China changed the rules about bringing such staff into the country.
- the 'right' to administer Muztagh Ata for climbing was sold by the XMA to a private company, who set up an operation at BC. Initially they jacked the price right up, though I think they later brought it down again. Not sure if they still run things now, or if it has gone back to how it was. Anyway, it was messy there for a while ...
- the peak was easy, but plenty of parties found they got bad weather up high on a long summit day and it was too much for some.
- the peak was easy, too easy, too boring for some.
- Sept might have more open crevasses, bare ice and routefinding problems. Others have said that the weather is OK in Sept though ...
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Re: Weather in Muztagh Ata region

Postby WouterB » Wed Feb 15, 2012 5:54 pm

Damien Gildea wrote:- the 'right' to administer Muztagh Ata for climbing was sold by the XMA to a private company, who set up an operation at BC. Initially they jacked the price right up, though I think they later brought it down again. Not sure if they still run things now, or if it has gone back to how it was. Anyway, it was messy there for a while ...

This is back to normal. The company still owns some hotel near the lake, but that's it.
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Re: Weather in Muztagh Ata region

Postby gert » Wed Feb 15, 2012 8:01 pm

Thank you Damien! I'm looking for either Kuksay or Koskulak. It will be just me and my partner and we like to go without guide, porter ec.
Can anybody recommend a local agency in Kashgar / Urumqi to organize the climbing permit, transportation to / from the mountain. How does it work with the liasion officer if there is no basecamp service ec.? Thanks in advance!
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