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Weisshorn east ridge difficulty?

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Weisshorn east ridge difficulty?

Postby Luciano136 » Wed Aug 18, 2010 5:50 pm

It says AD+ but I have no idea how difficult that is in American ratings (class 1-5). I might want to do a peak in the Matterhorn area next year but not the Matterhorn itself. Just looking for a fun outing with great views. Probably up to class 3ish rock; 45ish degree snow. Probably around early June.

Thx!
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Postby climbxclimb » Wed Aug 18, 2010 6:18 pm

AD+ should be no more than 5.6 rock moves a snow not exeeding 45 degrees angle and ice not more difficult than WI3...
D routes have consistent 5.7 sections with snow up to 60 degrees and ice up to WI4

and so forth...
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Postby Luciano136 » Wed Aug 18, 2010 6:22 pm

Thanks!! So, definitely not an unroped solo kinda deal. I would probably want to stick to something with less technical rock to be able to move quickly. Otherwise, I might as well try the Matterhorn :)
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Postby climbxclimb » Wed Aug 18, 2010 6:37 pm

Well if AD is your upper limit......
But normally if you climb D or TD routes, AD routes come be climbed with simul climbing technique with occasional bealy in the hardest sections on rock...
One thing about Matterhorn versus other climbs in the area is that you will find 5 or 6 bus loaded of people on Mattherhorn (unless you do the North Face), and a lot less people on the other mountains...

have fun!
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Postby Luciano136 » Wed Aug 18, 2010 6:40 pm

Just in the very early stages of research. The crowds is one of the reasons I would avoid the Matterhorn. Any other good suggestions for that area?
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Postby climbxclimb » Wed Aug 18, 2010 6:43 pm

I sent you a pm..
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Postby Flachlandtiroler » Thu Aug 19, 2010 12:51 pm

First:
Weisshorn Ostgrat IMHO is rated AD minus or AD, not AD plus (i.e. it's easier). This contains short pieces of rock climbing ("gendarmes") with UIAA grade III (5.4/5.5?), longer pieces of II; snow/ice up to 45 degree. Quite long (1600 metres vertival difference from the hut to summit, 3100 metres down).

So in contrast to what is said above, an experienced climber can solo the rocky part of the route, no problem. To simul-climb most of the route of course is mandatory to get through within one day...

Problem for a pure soloclimb is the short glacier crossing on foot of the mountain. It is not heavily crevassed, but you undergo a certain risk to go unroped there. Don't compair it to "harmless" glaciers like at lagginhorn normal route etc.

The other thing are the conditions -- UIAA III holds for dry rock conditions, which is not guaranteed neither predictable (a short thunderstorm is sufficient to turn it all into mixed terrain etc.).

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Postby Flachlandtiroler » Thu Aug 19, 2010 1:06 pm

climbxclimb wrote:Well if AD is your upper limit......

Quote from the "official" SAC-guidebook:
"Das Weißhorn ist nicht der Berg, an dem man seine Grenzen austesten sollte" (not verbatim, I try to translate: Weißhorn is not the peak where one should test out his margins...)

Suggestions for other peaks within grade AD around Zermatt (not necessarily for soloing!):
Zinalrothorn is an extremly beautiful climb, but also often crowded.
Weißhorn -- the hut keeps only 32 aspirants per night...
Täschhorn vis south arrete even less, but AFAIK it's 1.) harder and 2.) often in bad condition.
Dent d'Herens is rarely done, but access is from italy, not from Zermatt.
Schalihorn is something done very rarely I suppose and so does Jägerhorn (next to Nordend). Both below 4k, long & crevassed snow plods for access etc.

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Postby Luciano136 » Thu Aug 19, 2010 6:06 pm

Roping up for a short glacier traverse wouldn't be an issue. I would just prefer not having to go through roped rock climbing. Placing gear, belaying, removing gear, etc. is very time consuming.
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Postby climbxclimb » Thu Aug 19, 2010 6:46 pm

Placing pro and belaying, versus short rope climbing depends on your ability as a climber.
So if you are not able to lead comfortably at least 5.6 I would not suggest you to short rope climbing anything above 5.3 considering that you will be climbing in boots...
As we discussed yesterday doing the Breitherhorn traverse is a great idea the moves are not harder than 5.4 and there are only a few of them, therefore you can climb most it trough short roping ( I am assuming you are familiar with this technique)

I do not know the other climbs that were suggested with the exception of the Zinal Rothorn which I climbed through the north west ridge and it AD+, very beautiful but I would not recommend that route to you, maybe the normal route....

On the glacier be sure you how to deal with a crevasse rescue because the glaciers around there are very fractured...
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Postby Luciano136 » Thu Aug 19, 2010 8:48 pm

Breiterhorn looks like a pretty good option. I'll have to do some research on the others mentioned when I have time.
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Re: Weisshorn east ridge difficulty?

Postby Diego Sahagún » Fri Aug 20, 2010 10:14 am

Luciano136 wrote:It says AD+ but I have no idea how difficult that is in American ratings (class 1-5). I might want to do a peak in the Matterhorn area next year but not the Matterhorn itself. Just looking for a fun outing with great views. Probably up to class 3ish rock; 45ish degree snow. Probably around early June.

Thx!

The most interesting route there is the NE rib leading to the foresummit at 3965 m. This is AD and is started from the Lagin bivouac hut. I think that Point 3965 is the Pt 3972 in my SAC 1:25000 map (Saas)

(Sorry, that route I've said is on Weissmies, not Weisshorn :?
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Postby Diego Sahagún » Fri Aug 20, 2010 4:47 pm

Well, Weisshorn E ridge is graded AD but so long, more than 1500 m gained. Haven't you thought on the ridge from Bishorn :?: They would be less meters but it's AD+ graded
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Postby Luciano136 » Fri Aug 20, 2010 5:18 pm

Thanks Diego! I actually have not had any time to research anything yet. So, I have some work to do :D
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