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Pico de Orizaba Climber's Log

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Monster5summit  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Nov 20, 2012


normal route not in good condition - standard route now goes closer to ridge of gold
Posted Nov 9, 2014 6:27 pm

ajaysomaniRuta Normal  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Apr 7, 2014


I climbed orizaba with el Oso from Orizaba Mountain Guides. he was very helpful throughout the ascent. The ascent was pretty straightforward and not technical but once you are on the glacier its a long long slog to the summit even though it looks really close. It was a fun day altogether. I was out of energy by the time I reached the summit and it took me almost the same amount of time to get down as it did to ascend.
Posted Apr 25, 2014 6:35 pm

Geoffrey "Travel and roll"Aventure of a lifetime!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Apr 3, 2014

Geoffrey "Travel and roll"

This was one of the best experiences of my life.
I did it without preparation.
It was magic. I walk all the way to the refuge with all my gear alone, lost hope, found hope with a cool guy who was looking for a buddy and made it to the top and back down.
It was awesome!
You can find everything about this adventure, with all the details and advices on my blog:

It's also available in French:
Posted Apr 23, 2014 6:54 pm

dstevenson0204Perfect Conditions  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Mar 1, 2014


Couldn't have asked for a more beautiful day. 6 hours to the summit from the hut. Started at 1:30am and returned to hut by 11:40am. On par with Mount Hood as far as physical difficulty. Add 18000ft of elevation and it makes it a bit more challenging. Great experience and absolutely beautiful country!!!
Posted Mar 18, 2014 1:47 pm

CambotNo trouble with altitude  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 21, 2014


Spent a lovely couple days at the smaller Piedre Grande hut. Made at attempt on the summit the day before but turned around in the Labyrinth because my partner wasn't doing well. Climbed solo the next day - up in 5.5 and had the summit all to myself. Hardly felt the altitude! Memorable mountain.
Posted Feb 2, 2014 10:10 pm

Cloud OceanFrom high camp below the labyrinth  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 22, 2012

Cloud Ocean

Climbed over two days, with a high camp by the last rock rings below the labyrinth. Began climbing from my tent at 4:30 and reached the summit at 9:00. The labyrinth was out of condition with hard ice everywhere. Great conditions on the Jamapa glacier. Climbed Orizaba solo, but there were plenty of others on the mountain and in the hut.
Posted Jan 30, 2014 2:20 pm

FletchRuta Normal  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 14, 2014


Great climb with great folks... large CMC group --- very fun.
Posted Jan 17, 2014 2:09 pm

Kevintheclimbersummit baby   Sucess!
Date Climbed: Nov 26, 2013


pretty tough straightforward climb. The last 2,000 feet were brutal against the wind. but a great mountain, the highest one so far in my career
Posted Dec 26, 2013 3:11 pm

Joerg MarretschJamapa Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 3, 2013

Joerg Marretsch

Perfect wheather and mountain conditions. 5:45 H from Piedras Grandes hut to the summit - 75 minutes at the summit - 3 h down to Piedras Grandes.
Posted Dec 11, 2013 2:05 pm

vanman798Nov 27, 2013  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Nov 27, 2013


Arrived at base camp Nov 25. Hiked to 15,600 ft. Slept at 14,000 ft. Next day hiked to 16,200 ft, slept at 14,000 ft. Summited Nov 27. Took 5.25 hours up and 2.5 hours down. Highest point to date, for me. It was cold on top. Had the whole hut to myself the night of November 27.
Posted Dec 4, 2013 10:16 pm

DebRuta Normal  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Nov 25, 2013


36 hrs after climbing Izta, we climbed Orizaba with Oso from OMG. Not a cloud in the way the entire 9 hours hut-to-hut! Quite cold, but that's what wool is for. We took a very direct line straight up with perfect snow conditions. So jealous to watch 2 Colorado guys ski down! Altitude was never an issue for me. Awesome trip! Spent a restful night at Canchola's afterward; love Joaquin's birds.
Posted Nov 28, 2013 11:02 am

Andrew WebbPico de Orizaba   Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 3, 2013
My fiancé and I had a great adventure getting to Tlachichuca and climbing the Volcano/Mountain. We had recently trad climbed a few multi pitch routes in Tuolomne and had a great guided climb up the east buttress of Mt. Whitney. Pico proved to be a great outing and as we are new at high altitude climbs to have success on the first go in a single day push is very encouraging. We were so exhausted and the wind was so strong at the summit we only took one picture.
Posted Oct 5, 2013 11:31 pm

yadahzoemtnGreat Mountain  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 6, 2007


Climbed with a group of twelve. All of us made it.
Posted Sep 15, 2013 9:09 am

B-GroomsSuccess  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Feb 16, 2013


Awesome climb, not bad three in 9 days. I spend some time earlier in the week acclimating on La Malinche, then a successful summit of Ixtaccihuatl 17,340' followed by El Pico de Orizaba 3 days later. Long week, no storms or other conditions to be concerned about. Lot of wild fires in the surrounding areas, pretty dry this time of year. Awesome trip, good grade on the Jamapa glacier, little hard to breath but smooth going with plenty of time to acclimate on this trip
Posted Mar 23, 2013 11:47 pm

regolitheHard but fast  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Mar 3, 2013


Great climb. STEEP! Over 2000 vert. feet per mile. My friend and I arrived on Wednesday and hiked to the base of the labyrinth, to acclimatize. The next day we left around 8:00am with the intention of caching our heavier gear (crampons, boots, etc.) at the base of the glacier. However, by the time we got there, the conditions were so perfect, we just decided to go for it! Worked out great. 5:25 to the summit from the hut, 2:37 back down.
Posted Mar 6, 2013 12:47 pm

TheNobleSunfishPerfect Conditions  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 29, 2013


We waltzed up the Ruta Normal in great conditions. Boot track through the labyrinth (only short icy stretches) and good snow conditions to the summit on the glacier. Stayed a the excellent Cancholas hostel, getting a ride to and from Piedra Grande in their 4x4. Lots of fun and, as hoped, a great way to first experience high altitude.
Posted Jan 30, 2013 5:33 pm

ncstGreat climb!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Nov 18, 2012


I left Puebla early on Saturday morning for Tlachichuca (54 pesos). From there I took a shared taxi to San Miguel Zoapan (10 pesos). Walked through the fields in 1 hour to Miguel Hidalgo. From there to refugio Piedra Grande in 3 hours. Refugio filled up completely and there were some ten tents pitched outside. Left on Sunday morning at 3 am to reach the summit at 7:30 am. Great view, many people from the ruta sur there. Ice in the labyrinth, glacier was perfect, ice not to hard, hardly any wind. Descent in 3 hours. Started walking back from the refugio, then got a ride all the way to Tlachichuca.
Posted Nov 23, 2012 9:23 pm

donutslayerGreat cramponing  Sucess!


After a nice drive from Juarez down through DF we ended up at the base of Pico de Orizaba. We drove within a mile or so of the hut then finished hiking in. Met a mixed group of climbers from Seattle and Anchorage. Hit the summit the next morning and then headed to the beach the following day in Veracruz. Great trip
Posted Nov 14, 2012 2:58 pm

jmarkhamOrizaba  Sucess!


After acclimitization on Popo and overnight at a high hut we all made it but separated into two groups, the slower staying with a member who I felt should never have come up because of a persistant cough that had developed. He was very stubbornly wanting to summit and did, later, after some of us quickly decended due to an incoming storm. I'll never forget hearing and almost feeling my iceaxe zinging where I'd stowed it between my back and daysack. I prayed the rest of the gang up on the summit would not be hit as I almost ran down the peak. Fantastic experience.
Posted Nov 14, 2012 2:32 pm

DariaAwe-some!!!!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 27, 2011


With Matthew Sharples. Absolutely memorable memories-stayed with a good friend and biology student in mexico city, then we got to stay with a local Mexican family at the base of Pico de Orizaba, (they had a vacation home there), they even drove us up pretty close to the piedre grande hut for free in their truck. As well as taking us out to the Casa Blanca, it was their treat. What a generous kind family!! It was a joy to have experienced such authentic cultural exchanges vs. the standard disengaged tourist planned routine that most climbers do.

Dayhiked from Piedre Grande hut, summit experience was enhanced by a special "summit ritual" of some local climbers I shared the summit with. We barely were able to understand each other, but we they still managed to get me involved in their ritual and we ended up laughing, celebrating, and taking pictures/videos. The summit ritual was pouring snow on top of my bare head while I kneel down on one knee with hand on ice axe. Surreal and amazing experience and great bonding time with the locals! What a special treat to have experienced this. We then descended Pico de Orizaba to the east, down the jungles and hitched a ride with some locals down the many jungle towns back to Orizaba. The rest of my trip I toured the beautiful mexican Pacific coast to scout out future kayaking trips.
Posted Sep 22, 2012 2:53 pm

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