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Koen RegoutRoute Climbed: Standard route Date Climbed: 14 August 2005  Sucess!

Koen Regout

Summitted Peak Lenin on 14th of August, after a long climb (10 hrs) to the summit with high wind conditions. Cold feet but beautifull views.

Had a hard time on 'the Knife' after theoretical Camp 4.

We left Camp 3 at 06.00 hrs in a just rising sun. Hit the summit at 15.58 (an hour after official returning time, Oleg (my experienced guide through ITC / Asia Mountains) argued that the good weather would give us longer light...).

Return was tough due to again high winds and longitude. At last light (20.00 hrs) we passed Camp 3 in the saddle, being now punished for the fact having build our own Camp 3 at Razdalnaya Peak (approx 80 metres higher up towards Camp 2...). Argument at building it was that the next day leaving, you would not have to reclimb R. Peak first (and much more space, which where both correct). Result was that at the maximum end of our resources, we still had to make the 80 metres up to the tent with the sun by far gone.

In complete darkness, by 21.00 hrs we reached the tent, devistated but extremely happy. Did it! Peak Lenin, 7134 m! Cognac and soup where served by Oleg...

Aprox temperatures varied between minus 29 (at 06.00 hrs) and -10/15 later through the day. Wind was hard to estimate, but definately at the most exposed parts (up to 40% of the trip) they felt as up to Beaufort 7/8... Ridiculous.

Best time to climb this year was definately mid August (many expeditions either failed completely or only managed just some of the members, mainly due to too much snow and too cold conditions)

Take care and enjoy this beautifull mountain.
Posted Aug 20, 2005 3:24 am

David P.Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: July 30, 2005  Sucess!

David P.

Arrived in Achik Tash on July 18, 2005 as part of a big non-guided group of 22 members; the ISLET 2005 expedition which included 9 type 1 diabetics with yours truly being one of them. Our outfitter, ITC Asia Mountains, did an excellent job at BC and ABC (providing tents and meals). The most difficult day from a technical perspective was the trip from ABC to Camp 2. This section was heavily crevassed and exposed to some avalanche and falling serac hazard. Best to move fast, travel early in the morning, and stay roped for this section. Camp 2 to Camp 3 was by far the most enjoyable and virtually free of any crevasse danger with good scenery. My partner Doug and I were reasonably fit, as acclimatized as possible in such a short time, and made our first and only attempt on July 30 with two other members of our expedition. We left Camp 3 in poor weather conditions with high winds and so-so visibility, but conditions improved. Above Camp 4 we passed the body of a climber we later found out was a 24-yr old Polish man who had died only 5 or 6 days earlier from unknown injuries or illness below a steeper snow section on frozen scree.



Windy and cold but visibility improved. Doug reached the summit in approximately 5.25 hours from C3 and I was about a half hour behind and reached the summit around 12:30 am and waited for Beppe Tararan (from the ISLET group) on the summit and descended with him and eventually caught Doug on the descent who was waiting for us. We passed Giampaolo (the fourth ISLET member to summit July 30) who was still on his way up and within an hour of the summit. Arrived back at our tent at Camp 3 in less than three hours from the summit and brewed up. The regular afternoon snow storm arrived within a few hours and conditions deteriorated into the night with high winds and heavy snow. Dug out in the morning, brewed up and made it back down to ABC for lunch after waiting for the weather to improve at C3. Ate a leisurely lunch and left ABC for Achik Tash by 3:30 pm (a bit late) and went as quickly to BC as possible and made it a few minutes after 7 pm and great dinner and sleeeep.



Kyrgyzstan is an amazing country with many, many more interesting possibilities....



David

Posted Aug 16, 2005 5:34 pm

VangseRoute Climbed: Normal route / Razdelnay route Date Climbed: August 2004  Sucess!
Summitted 26 August from camp 3, 6100 m and was back in camp after about 10 hours. Descended all the way to camp 1 / ABC. Summitted with our danish guide and 3 rushian guides. Only I out of 9 clients made the summit. The entire trip fell apart due to very poor organising on behalf of our rushian guides. Due to my backs not making the transfer in Heathrow I did not receive most of my gear after 2 weeks. Had to borrow gear form the others.
Posted Jan 20, 2005 2:15 am

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