Welcome to SP!  -
Sort By:


[ Sign the Climber's Log ]
Viewing: 1-20 of 70 « PREV 1 2 3 4 NEXT » 

gloss151Advise for Pisco-Normal Route in December
Date Climbed: Dec 9, 2015

gloss151

I've tried twice two climb pisco on short vacations from the US. The first time we had bad weather and poor acclimitization (4 days at higher altitudes). The second I had good acclimitization (summitted Vallunaraju two days prior, 8 total days of acclimitization) and again really bad weather.

The flights to Lima in December are dirt cheap ($350 rt from Minneapolis), so it's a great time to go to Huaraz, but the weather is unpredictable.

On my first summit attempt, we tried to depart around midnight from the refugio, but it was snowing significantly. This made the crossing of the moraine difficult. That on top of the poor acclimitization we had made us turn around.

On my 2nd attempt, I had a few extra days to acclimitize and summitted vallunaraju two days prior. I hired a mountain guide and we had mules take our stuff to the refugio, we then continued on with light packs to camp at the moraine. It's easy crossing the moraine in daylight, so I'm not sure why this strategy isn't more popular... free climbing the wall with a 20kg pack to enter the moraine isn't the safest, so wearing a helmet is essential. I got some good rest and we headed out at 2am. It was extremely warm and it was snowing. The snow on the glacier was very soft. We breached a couple snow bridges and had to crawl across others. Given the poor visibility (25 meters) we turned around at the col. When we were going to rapel off the glacier to the moraine, the snow broke away beneath my guides foot while he was setting an ice screw and down he went without his ice axe. Thank goodness he was able to self arrest with his crampons as my axe was planted in the same loose ice that broke free.

When climbing in December in the cordierra blanca, some 5k meter mountains are safely climbable (pisco, vallunaraju, yannapacha). It is the rainy season, so understand that some days are crystal clear and other days will have warm nights making for terrible climbing conditions. On the plus side, you always have the mountain all to yourself. A strategy that would guarantee good weather in December would be to just hang out at the refugio for an extra day or two until you get a cold/clear night.
Posted Jan 13, 2016 1:27 pm

AlbertoRampiniRe: Advise for Pisco-Normal Route in December

AlbertoRampini

December isn't the right season to climb in Cordillera Blanca....
Posted Jan 14, 2016 1:43 am

Cloud OceanAnother huge moraine hike...  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 10, 2015

Cloud Ocean

The moraine is almost more difficult and dangerous than the actual climb. First hiking up behind the refuge, and then hiking way back down on the other side... awful approach to the glacier. The route was in good condition for us, with no surprises or particular difficulties. It was a very hot night, and we climbed in base layers for the first hour. The summit views at dawn were spectacular, surrounded by peaks and clouds which glowed from the sunrise behind.
Posted Oct 25, 2015 6:56 am

andre hangaardA foggy day on Pisco  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 28, 2015

andre hangaard

After almost a week with clear skies we managed to pick a bad weather day for our Pisco summit!
Due to warnings from Eduardo (at Edward's Inn in Huaraz) regarding an upcoming transportation strike in the Ancash region we were stronlgy adviced to leave for Yungay and Pisco one day earlier. Thus we camped at the lovley Llanganuco camping site. The next day we spent at the super friendly Refugio Peru. On the third day we climbed up Moraine camp.
The crux on Pisco I would definately claim is the route finding and crossing over the old dried out moraine. The descent into the moraine is steep and contains lots of loose rock and dirt. If you carry a 25+ kg backpack you need to focus on balance.
To exit the moraine it is important to aim at the lowest part in the saddle on the opposite side. It is easy to miss the "exit" even during daytime.
The campsite at the moraine up at 5.000m was great with water and no wind.
We left at 4:30 with clear skies but half way up unfortunately the weather deteriorated and when we summited at 08:30 it was a complete whiteout.
The climb itself from the glacier was very easy and only a few large but clearly visible crevasses. The steep ice section I'd read about close to the summit was nowhere to find. But then again there was bad a whiteout :-)
Posted Sep 10, 2015 6:11 am

attimountjust myself  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2014

attimount

Joined a guided team from base camp, but once I entered the ice kingdom,
i just went by myself.
Nice climb, especially when you have the mountain for yourself and perfect weather.
Posted Jul 27, 2015 9:44 pm

viktor vaughnHalfway up
Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2013

viktor vaughn

You get up a valley facing the Chopicalqui. unfortunately, it was cloudy that day, so we couldn't see that much. The refuge is very Alpine looking (Italians built it i believe). We had to abandon halfway up the Pisco due to very bad weather.
July 2013 was very stable weatherwise in the Cordillera Blanca. Our team managed to climb Urus, Ichinca, Toclaraju (through the Bergshrund route), Huascaran Sul and Chopicalqui.
Posted Jan 29, 2015 2:34 pm

peter.lacovaraEasy - minus altitude  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2014
Long snow plod, would be a piece of cake except for the altitude. No ice wall this year, just a small crevasse to hop over just below the summit. Beautiful weather and a great view of many of the 6000ers in the Blanca. Like others said, the boulder field below moraine camp was relentless.
Posted Aug 15, 2014 5:23 pm

VivyenneSw ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2014

Vivyenne

First climb in PerĂº pretty much straight after arriving in Huaraz. The morraine is a real pain. We took a wrong turn at one point and ended up almost getting our heads bashed in from a huge rock dislodged by a careless climber above. Great weather-clear skies, no wind, great snow conditions- and an absolutely spectacular view frkm the summit. Round trip from base camp and then descending to cebollapamba (and back to Huaraz) in the same day made for a very very long haul.
Posted Aug 15, 2014 1:01 pm

mjp20kStandard route
Date Climbed: Jun 1, 2008

mjp20k

Pristine day in the Cordillera Blanca
Posted Jul 21, 2014 8:48 pm

Ted EliasonSlog up a reflector oven  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2014

Ted Eliason

Hot, windless. Hard after only 2 prev days in Huaraz. Spectacular summit.
Posted Jul 4, 2014 1:05 pm

Ted EliasonSlog up a reflector oven  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2014

Ted Eliason

Hot, windless. Hard after only 2 prev days in Huaraz. Spectacular summit.
Posted Jul 4, 2014 1:05 pm

jonboynormal route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2012

jonboy

I climbed this first in 2011 as my very first mountain experience and I was hooked. I climbed it again in 2013 as an acclimatization peak in preparation for Chopicalqui. I'll probably climb it again as a prep for Huascaran. I love it.
Posted May 2, 2014 11:03 pm

InaLandFarAwayRe: normal route
What were the temperatures you encountered on summit (night and) day on your two climbs? Wondering if I need to haul my double boots, or is a super-gaiter style boot would work for the weather.

Thanks!
Posted May 21, 2014 2:05 pm

JtheChemERe: normal route
What did you end up doing? I am in the same position myself.
Posted Jan 25, 2015 2:56 pm

CTHLOYPisco - normal route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 3, 2013

CTHLOY

I agree with the previous post, going down a loose loess wall in the beginning of the moraine traverse was the sketchiest part of the whole climb. The first day we went to high camp, with lunch at the refugio, and then the second day we got up at 3am, made it to the summit shortly after sunrise and returned to Huaraz. The crevasses were well overbridged and no problem to cross.
We were the only ones on the mountain! Absolutely stunning 360 degree summit views!
Posted Sep 22, 2013 10:21 am

FarmerNormalroute  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2013

Farmer

What an amazing view! The most dangerous part was getting down and up the morene.....
Posted Sep 8, 2013 1:10 pm

HumbertoPisco normal Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2013

Humberto

Did this as the first peak of the expedition and it was fun. Nothing technical, of course be wary of crevaces. Up and down in 2 days and from there straight to Chopi.
Posted Jul 24, 2013 4:59 pm

JakePisco   Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2013

Jake

Climbed Pisco via normal route with my partner Jacek. Wonderful conditions and amazing views. The most difficult bit was a moraine with sand and loose stones.
Posted Jul 9, 2013 8:41 am

cyffredinolA lovely climb  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2012

cyffredinol

I had precisely zero mountaineering experience but was in good shape and well acclimatized after two weeks trekking in the area. Fellow trekkers convinced me that really this was a suitable peak for a beginner like me (with a guide). I went with Galaxia as their rates were reasonable and our guide was excellent. The first day, took the bus up and hiked in to the Refugio. I highly recommend staying there as the food is good and a warm bunk is way more comfortable than a chilly tent (after two weeks of treking I really appreciated this!). Got up at midnight and left at 1 am. Summitted at around 7 am after seemingly endless trudging in the dark. My friends were right, there was nothing technical about this climb and it was totally appropriate for a beginner with a guide. Definitely would not have gone without a guide or unroped due to the presence of crevasses. Fantastic view from the summit. The walk back down the glacier was a delight. Crossing the moraine on the way back was exhausting, it seemed like it would never end. Got back to the Refugio before noon and spent the rest of the day catching up on sleep! The mountain is said to be very popular but we encountered only one other group, and this was the high season, so I guess popular is relative.
Posted Apr 28, 2013 11:55 pm

paulparkieAll to ourselves  Sucess!

paulparkie

Clear skies, strong winds, worth the effort.
Posted Nov 12, 2012 4:30 pm

Viewing: 1-20 of 70 « PREV 1 2 3 4 NEXT » 
[ Return to 'Pisco Oeste (Western Pisco)' main page ]