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20053 Hits
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Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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51.14168°N / 115.65736°W |
Route Type:
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Sport Climbing |
Season:
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Summer |
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Time Required:
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Most of a day |
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Rock Difficulty:
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5.9 (YDS) |
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Number of Pitches:
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7 |
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Grade:
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I |
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Overview
One of the best 5.9 sport climbs around Banff located on Raven Crag, short distance from Banff (Cave and Basin area). Seven pitches on excellent rock and perfectly set belaying stations. Excellent vistas of Banff, Bow Valley, Verimilion Lakes and Mount Rundle. The first ascent was done in 2012 by Banff Climber's Club, and it was bolted by Mark Klassen (thank you Mark).
Raven Crag
Plutonian Shores Topo
Getting There
Park in Banff's Cave and Basin parking lot. Follow paved trail west for about 500m (passing Cave and Basin). At the bottom of the first hill take a well used horse trail that branches to the left. Follow the trail for about 200m until you notice a faint trail to the left (marked with a cairn). Follow this trail for about 40 minutes until it levels below a rocky ridge above. From there, take the left branching and going steeply downhill trail. About 5 minutes later, after losing 40m of elevation, you will find yourself at the start of the climb. There is no belaying station at the start of the first pitch, but you will notice at least 2 bolts above. You can also bypass the first two pitches by taking Lenore Traverse. The traverse starts a bit higher up and about 100m before the first Plutonian pitch. It will take between 45 minutes to 1 hour to get to the start of the climb.
Raven Crag seen from the approach trail
Route Description
Pitch 1 (Welcome to Texas) - 5.5, 20m, 6 bolts.Follow the line of 6 bolts up and to the left on an easy slab.
Looking for the first pitch.
Pitch 2 (The Battle of the Bulges) - 5.7, 55m, 16 bolts (17 if rappel station included).
Easy, but fun pitch ascending never ending rows of slated corners and bulges with excellent pocket rock.
You will pass an interim rappel station about 25m up from the 1st belay station.
On the second pitch
Pitch 3 (The Castling Move) - 4th, 10m, 1 bolt.
Move your belay station 10m to the left on easy 4th class traverse.
Second belay station
Pitch 4 (Left Left Right) - 5.8, 20m, 8 bolts.
Climb the slab above to the left and then mount the slanted to the right corner. Follow this ridge for few more bolts to a two bolt belay station. The station is somewhat hidden behind the right facing corner.
5.8 move on the forth pitch
Pitch 5 (A Murder of Crows) - 5.8, 50m, 17 bolts.
To the right of the belay station is a prominent left facing corner. Climb this corner passing 3 bolts to a interim rappel station (do not clip to the rappel station). At the rappel station climb the left side of the corner and step over its ridge (first 5.8 move). Few moves up will position you under a steep wall with couple of visible bolts above. Either climb this wall (5.8) or move into a shallow chimney to the left (possibly 5.7 moves?). The steep wall eases to a yet another left facing corner with few 5.7 moves before reaching 2 bolt belay station.
Pitch 6 (Billy the Destroyer) - 5.9, 30m, 12 bolts.
Climb the short left facing corner passing 2 bolts. The corner ends on a slab bulge which is the first 5.9 mover. Easier climbing is to the right of the bolt to mount the ledge. Move easily left to the next 5.9 move at a bolt. Easiest to climb in the groove left of the bolt. Easier ground up and right following bolts to a 2 bolt station.
Pitch 7 (The Cooler) - 5.7, 35m, 10 bolts.
The final pitch has two 5.7 short walls that must be mounted before reaching the final slabby rock which leads to 2 bolt station (no rappel rings).
At the top of the crag.
View from the top
To get down:
Hike up towards the ridge (up and to the right) and then follow cairn marked trail until you reach a flat area below the main ridge. This is the same spot that you branched off on your climb approach. From here retrace your climbing approach back to Cave and Basin. The route can also be rappelled. All stations with the exception of the last one (7th) have rap rings.