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Primus Peak Climber's Log

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setrentFrom Austera  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 3, 2017
Great views!
Posted Sep 8, 2017 12:14 am

gimpilatorInspiration Traverse  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 27, 2017


Thanks for going back Josh! Trip report

Posted Jul 16, 2017 1:14 am

seanoVia Thunder Creek  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2016


Pretty decent climbers' trail up the ridge from McAllister camp, though it's easy to lose on the way down. I should have tagged its neighbors, but bailed on a partly-cloudy day. Trip report.
Posted Jul 24, 2016 11:20 am

Josh LewisWest Ridge via Inspiration Traverse  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2015

Josh Lewis

From Austera this peak was straight forward to the summit. Getting off of it was a lot trickier than I had imagined. Due to the glacier retreating, the glacier is now separated from the north face creating large cliff bands with loose rock followed by a moat. While technically possible to descend on the north west side, go down to Lucky Pass if you can. If you descend to Lucky Pass you will have to navigate back west and do a long route to avoid going down the Lucky Pass ice fall.

Another alternative is to do this May through June.
Posted May 24, 2016 1:40 pm

Matt LemkeVia west ridge after Austera on Inspiration Traverse  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2015

Matt Lemke

Since I knew the descent off Lucky Pass would be a "no-go" due to the rock hard ice, we climbed west up a huge glacier to the south of Primus and met the west ridge at 7,800 feet. We ascended the west ridge to 8,200 feet and dropped the packs at the small notch. Finished the peak, then returned to our packs and took a narrow and loose ledge down from the 8,200 foot notch towards the small glacier to the NW of the peak. The ledge ended and we were forced to do a scary 50 foot rappel to the snow below down a hideous gully with multiple death blocks above us. Once on the snow it was an easier walk to the low point in the north ridge where we were able to drop to Borealis Lake on the grassy ridge I explored three years prior. Getting around this peak in late season to complete the Inspiration Traverse is getting tricky.
Posted Aug 6, 2015 12:59 am

relicVia ski  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 3, 2009


Another great area, backcountry skier's nirvana. Skied over from Eldo, then down around to North Klawatti Glacier. Early season usually makes crevasse danger almost non-existant, as long as one pays attention to route. I certainly felt like I was in the remote-est of the remote back there, the wall of Austera looming over the glacier made it all feel rather arctic.
Posted Sep 18, 2011 1:13 pm

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