Enchantments > Prusik Peak > Climber's LogPrusik Peak Climber's Log
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| jordansahls | West Ridge, F-ing sweet!  Date Climbed: Aug 29, 2006 | |
| Still, I could have done without the 30 to 40 mph winds! | |
| Posted Aug 31, 2006 3:51 am | ||
| bacrossman | West Ridge Date Climbed: Aug 29, 2006 | |
| Nice route, lots of fun. It was a bit windy though, and belaying was quite chilly. | |
| Posted Aug 31, 2006 2:49 am | ||
| rpc | Two Lines | |
| South Face, Stanely-Hamburger, June 25-56, 2006. 4 years since our last visit here. Enough to forget the long (if on nice trails) approach. Nice line. Ledgy though and the last pitch was not that great IMHO (weird cracks). Ran short on gear on it (which scared me). You can easily do the route in ~4 pitches with 60m rope. Chimney pitch was actually nicer (comparable to chimney pitch on Aries at Index - just a touch longer but with very good pro). Long approach/hike out esp. for first alpine outing of the season. West Ridge, Sept. 28, 2002. My wife and I did this as a day climb via Snow Lakes (?) trail - about 20 miles r.t. and 6700' of elevation gain. Started on saturday at 2am pretty much straight from work; were done climbing the incredible pitches of prusik by about 4pm; back in the car at 11pm on saturday (passed out in the car at 11:05pm and slept till 8am) for a grand total of 21 nonstop hrs. of fun. Carried two ropes (10.5 and 9), full rack of cams and full set of nuts - the pack weight was appreciable - if I had to do it over again, I'd bring.....well, pretty much the same thing (used most of it) maybe I'd skip the food since we really did not eat anything (not sure why, just skipped our minds). Best rock climb to date. The 5.7 smearing slab portion was relatively easy (short) however the belay above that section was very interesting - narrow, exposed ledge with the anchor being somewhat questionable. The ridge traverse after the 5.7 slab was very exposed - opted to do it as a 'finger traverse' on one side given the fact that pro could really be set only to take a fall in a single direction off the ridge. The final long pitch below the summit was definitely the crux - the 5.6 lieback beginning was fun, the 5.8 chimney (according to Jeff Smoot's book) was interesting - was able to place multiple solid pieces at the start of the chimney, go onto a slanting ledge about 1/3 of the way up the chimney and solidly place two (large and medium) cams 1/2 way up that last portion of the chimney. Rapped off the north face - seemed to take many many rappels - group ahead of us kept on getting their ropes stuck so we opted to do only 2 initial rap's as double rope; rest were single rope. Excellent climb!!!! | |
| Posted Jun 29, 2006 5:03 pm | ||
| daverobb | Route Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: Oct 4, 2005 | |
| Amazing area in the fall! Very "Enchanting"! And the route was solid. | |
| Posted Apr 16, 2006 6:11 pm | ||
| Kerstin | Route Climbed: West Ridge and South Face Date Climbed: August 13 & 14, 1986 | |
| Approached via Aasgard Pass. The Enchantment Lakes region has got to be one of the most spectacularly beautiful areas I've ever been to. The climbs were wonderful--great weather and routes on impeccable granite. | |
| Posted Sep 27, 2005 11:04 pm | ||
| jtschanz | Route Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: September 18, 2005 | |
| Great rock and an awesome position high above the Enchantment Lakes. This was a very enjoyable climb on a clear & sunny (but cold!) morning. Too bad the climb is so short. The descent seemed to take forever - hats off to anyone who does this climb car-to-car in a day. | |
| Posted Sep 21, 2005 11:49 am | ||
| hkutuk | Route Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: September 17-18, 2005 | |
| Jim and I entered the 7:45am Enchantment permit lottery and we won! so Prusik was a go. Fortunately on Sunday the weather improved from previous day's cloudy, drizzly, gloomy state to blue sunny skies though it was still cold. We climbed leisurely 4 pitches up and enjoyed the summit for half an hour. Two double and one single rope rappel brought us down to where we could scramble back. Camping in the Enchantments with larches turning yellow was great, but the hike in and out from Snow Lakes seemed never ending, too much work for 3-4 pitches of climbing but well worth the ambiance. | |
| Posted Sep 20, 2005 12:41 pm | ||
| jasonconnell | Route Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: July 23 2005 | |
| Hiked in via Asgard pass on 7/22 in a pouring rain. Rain stopped early that evening but it was a windy night. Cleared up the next day and we were able to get up the ridge in good weather. After Rapping down the North Face we hiked back to camp, had a snack and headed up Little Anapurna. We had a birds eye view of the grim helicopter body recovery of a young hiker who had fallen a died the day prior. Hiked back out Sunday, Asgard pass is worse going down than up! Pictures here | |
| Posted Aug 14, 2005 1:35 am | ||
| cluck | Route Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: July 17 2005 | |
| Hike in from Snow Lakes with giant pack (4 day trip) was pretty tough. Camped at Lep. Lake and battled the bugs. Lots of trout to be caught in all lakes. Climbed West Ridge in party of 3. Must have climbed the harder "chimney" to reach summit since it really wasn't a chimney at all but rather an awkward off width that took us a couple of looks to figure out. Bald eagle soaring above us on the summit seemed about right for the Enchantments experience. | |
| Posted Jul 21, 2005 1:48 pm | ||
| Chinese Rock | Route Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: June 12, 2004 | |
| I climbed this one with Tom Fralich (see hist post below). The only thing I would add to his comments is that if you do an early season ascent of the peak consider bringing your boots on the route -- they might come in very handy for getting back to Prusik Pass after rappelling the north face. | |
| Posted Feb 24, 2005 3:32 am | ||
| John Paul | Route Climbed: South Face Date Climbed: August 15th 2004 | |
| Car to car goodness. | ||
| Posted Oct 6, 2004 4:36 pm | ||
| Derek Franzen | Route Climbed: South Face E route & W Ridge Date Climbed: July '80 & July '81 | |
| 1st trip: With E Sandbo, L Rasmussen & M Woodmansee. Hiked in with wives to camp above Naiad Lake on Friday. Swam a little in Snow Lake on the way in. Up early Saturday and climbed up route, 1st pitch not hard to protect if you stay near outside edge of the chimney. Even numbered pitches were easy. Climbed up crux, bulging flared jam crack, and thrutched up it, no style points awarded. Downclimbed and rappeled from summit down N side of peak, many large ledges and several rappels. On way back to camp found perfect small stream cutting itself a 6" wide by 6" deep trough through granite slabs. Wonderful fun climb. 2nd trip: Same guys on way to Cannon Mtn. | |
| Posted Aug 16, 2004 8:27 pm | ||
| Gail J | Route Climbed: West Ridge. Date Climbed: Aug. 27, 2002 | |
| We made this a 3 day trip, which made it quite pleasant climb. | |
| Posted Aug 15, 2004 1:51 pm | ||
| Tom Fralich | Route Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: June 12, 2004 | |
| After a failed attempt on Mount Temple (June 11) from our camp at Nada Lake, we moved up to a very nice bivy site at Lake Vivian for an attempt on Prusik. The weather in the morning was excellent and we were even visited by a family of mountain goats (including baby). The first two pitches went smoothly, but on reaching the ridge crest, we saw some nasty looking clouds coming in from the south. We hurried on to the summit just before the first snow started to fall. After 5 rappels from the summit, we arrived on steep snow slopes (apparently the normal traverse ledges were still well buried). We realized quickly that traversing 50 degree snow in rock shoes is virtually impossible, so we opted for a belayed traverse of the north face itself (about 3 pitches of low fifth-class). We finally arrived back at Prusik Pass and hurried all the way down to the Snow Lakes TH (a very long descent). Very nice climb in a spectacular alpine area. | |
| Posted Jun 14, 2004 6:10 pm | ||
| brandon | Route Climbed: South Face...Bergner?Stanley Date Climbed: Sep 4, 2003 | |
| We are thinking 5.9 flared chimney, we'll it probably like Valley 5.7, oh no, full on. Relatively short though, overhanging flared squeeze chimney. And then some 7 inch business on the last pitch. Did the route car to car in 16 hours because getting permitted is such a pain. Route comes highly recommended. | |
| Posted Sep 5, 2003 12:56 pm | ||
| scot'teryx | Route Climbed: West Ridge (Quest Alb Variation) Date Climbed: October 6, 2002 | |
| Perfectly clear day, high winds at Prusik Pass. Did a variation of the 1st pitch (5.7) and met up at the 2nd pitch of the exposed slab climbing that wasn't as bad as I had heard. Short traverse on the exposed ridge from there, simul climbed to the base of the 3rd pitch, had fun wityh the 5,6 hand crack and the 5.6 flake that hits the ledge near the 5.8 chimney or the 5.6 chimney. I opted for the 5.6 to the summit. Windy on top, hard to hear each other even with radios. Rope drag happens, accept it. 4 raps down to the base of the climb, dont do double rope rappels as they say, easier with one rope. Replace old runners if you can. | |
| Posted Oct 15, 2002 12:13 pm | ||
| geoffcasey | Route Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: October 6, 2002 | |
| Departed parking lot 12:00pm saturday (due to hangover) and hike to the upper enchanments, and secured a hidden campsite due to lack of appropriate permits. Headed off to the climb at 6:00am Sunday and arrived to find a party of three and a party of 4 ahead of us, Doh! No big deal though. The skies were clear though the wind was really howlin. The climbing is great, the best actually. The friction slab is a good test as is the very exposed traverse that follows. The final 5.4 chimney is not noticable, so I opted for the 5.8 direct crack. The guide book calls it a chimney, I guess to them chimney means nearly off width crack in a dihedral with thin holds. It seemed harder than 5.8, but everything seems harder when the wind is whippin' and the exposure is grand. View from the summit is great. Breing two ropes for te rappel as it will go much faster. | |
| Posted Oct 7, 2002 11:49 am | ||
| BicRungee | Route Climbed: west ridge Date Climbed: August 2000 | |
| Climbed August 2000 with Zach. Approached via Aasgard Pass and camped just after the pass. Hiked in early morning to base of route - many mosquitos. Some inobvious route-finding, then excellent exposed traverse on chicken-heads made route very worthwhile. Thought final chimney was a bit hard for the grade and it sheared off my belay device (atc). Descent seemed to required more rappels than guidebooks indicated. Got back to camp around 5pm, descended Aasgard (nasty) and crossed boulder field before dark, finally reached trailhead about 11pm. | ||
| Posted Jul 10, 2002 3:59 pm | ||
| darinchadwick | Route Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: July 1999 | |
| My second time on this fine route. Much more fun the second time, cause I took no extra gear, and never doubted where the route went. If I do it a third time, I'll take even less gear, and do it in a day from the trailhead, saving the interminable trudge with a backpack. | |
| Posted Mar 29, 2002 5:16 am | ||
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