Route Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: October 6, 2002
Departed parking lot 12:00pm saturday (due to hangover) and hike to the upper enchanments, and secured a hidden campsite due to lack of appropriate permits. Headed off to the climb at 6:00am Sunday and arrived to find a party of three and a party of 4 ahead of us, Doh! No big deal though. The skies were clear though the wind was really howlin. The climbing is great, the best actually. The friction slab is a good test as is the very exposed traverse that follows. The final 5.4 chimney is not noticable, so I opted for the 5.8 direct crack. The guide book calls it a chimney, I guess to them chimney means nearly off width crack in a dihedral with thin holds. It seemed harder than 5.8, but everything seems harder when the wind is whippin' and the exposure is grand. View from the summit is great. Breing two ropes for te rappel as it will go much faster.
Route Climbed: west ridge Date Climbed: August 2000
Climbed August 2000 with Zach. Approached via Aasgard Pass and camped just after the pass. Hiked in early morning to base of route - many mosquitos. Some inobvious route-finding, then excellent exposed traverse on chicken-heads made route very worthwhile. Thought final chimney was a bit hard for the grade and it sheared off my belay device (atc). Descent seemed to required more rappels than guidebooks indicated. Got back to camp around 5pm, descended Aasgard (nasty) and crossed boulder field before dark, finally reached trailhead about 11pm.
My second time on this fine route. Much more fun the second time, cause I took no extra gear, and never doubted where the route went. If I do it a third time, I'll take even less gear, and do it in a day from the trailhead, saving the interminable trudge with a backpack.